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Also wickes generally do 3 for a certain price on all bagged building goods. And add to that 10% trade discount. It usually works out cheaper.

This shortage hasn’t eased?

Thanks for your advice. I did it this weekend. It was a lot harder then bonding as occasionally mixture didn’t stick in and I had to make things a bit more wet. I am going to do it in the kitchen too where it’s got large areas of brick. I will use a straight edge to do large areas. What are tips...

Hanks. It was my dad who said. He is a retired carpenter. I thought he was doing the “criticise other tradesman thing” he said “you got a app rounder to donit? “

Now another person said they should be priming inside of frame before attaching

I didn’t. I did supply a fit.

See picture to add depth it’s flush. But some people say add a step to stop it cracking

I got some door frames fitted just before skimming. he had to give the door frames more depth. He added a flush bead to make it. Someone said they should not have been flush as they always crack. what do you think?

Thanks. mine more thing. Where I boarded the cieling there’s a 5-10mm gap in some parts. Usually I apply bonding and then skrim. What is best thing to do here? Sand and cement? Or shall I just easy fill and then scrim

Oh yeah . There’s some cieling boarding I done. I have some 5mm gaps. Can I use sand and cement to fill these gaps? Or should I use something else? I have dot and dab adhesive and easi fill . I will scrim tape it acter

Ok I’m gonna give the sand and cement a shot. I don’t need to skim over it yet. Skimmer will come in a week or so. Do I need to P.V.A. wall before I sand and cement it. Any tips?

Yes I mean bonding is finished. So if I use sand and cement mix on chase. I use it the same way I do bonding and thts skimmer can skim over it the same way? So there’s no benefit from me using bonding?

Hi. Bonding is finished at our builders merchant. i need to fill in chases for electrics . I have plasterboard. Can I just dot and dab chases? then can I use easi fill for the small gaps. will this work?

Ok couldn’t see anything https://www.vaillant.co.uk/downloads/z/ecotec/ecotec-installation-servicing-2-2005-261445.pdf I believe any trunking/wire it would need to be 20mm below?

He said as long as we have 150mm between boiler and any wiring. Flu don’t matter

I am doing a full rewrite and new boiler location. the electrocution is at work. The boiler flu will come out to left of the boiler . There will be a bit of wiring above it. Is this allowed?

I have one of the kitchen cubby holes. I want to cover it. What is best way. If I remove the frame do I risk the wall coming down above me? Equally I can’t keep frame as plaster can’t be attached to wood. i Could just paint the frame with blue grit?

I could put a helibar in I was thinking. Or some temp support and a very solid duct! But all a bit overkill so I will just drill to the right hand side a bit

It might be lower then the yellow mark. If it’s low enough could I put it below the JOIST? For example 1 brick course? Or is that a bit risky?

Ok so move it over a tad to put it between JOISTS?