Search results

15 minutes is far too long to soak lining paper.

if the surface is smooth enough, there is no need to sand between coats. The Armstead Water based satin is much better, also made by Dulux. Get in Dulux Decorator Center or Screwfix.

Ideally needs re plastering !!! The fabric material could be a form of insulated board, prior to plaster board. There is a lot of distemper on the surfaces, so if don't re plaster that would need sealing.

Easiest way is to sand everything down, fill anything that needs filling and then give it all a coat of matt emulsion. A lot of the newer papers are quite thin and shading underneath can show through. Also if the paper is a white background then if the joints open up slightly then they wont show...

No that's a mist coat which is correct. Sometimes people use PVA first but that will cause problem later. Think you need to scrape off as much of the paint as you can and seal it with a decent stain block and start again.

If the paint is coming off as clean as that, it may have been sealed with PVA prior to painting, which is a big No No !!!

All depends on the condition of the wall, type of plaster , filler etc, Old, new, distemper !!

Only spot prime the raw timber. Undercoat everything after that. Oil based gloss and satin will yellow within a few months as the chemicals that keep the paint white have been taken out due to European legislation. Water based finishes stay white for a lot longer.

I never worry about mixing it to a certain specification, pint or water in a 10 litre bucket and a good stir. Doesn't need to be too thin or it will be everywhere.

If its at the top of the reveals then it will have nothing to do with the damp course. It sounds like condensation, which is caused by warm air in the room getting trapped near the doors where it touches a colder surface . Scrape it back and sand it down. apply a stain block or a bit of oil...

Sanding new plaster can scratch the surface that can be seen when its painted. If the surface is nice and shiny then the plasterer has polished it too much, they tend not to care about the painters that follow. One mist coat is all that is required then move onto full coats. Sometimes the...

John is about right. the paint will be a contract matt that has no vinyl in it, hence why its coming off when you wipe it. You can either paper straight over it and it will be fine or as John suggests that you paint it with a decent Vinyl matt first to help when you next strip it and may want to...

The peel stop is really for when the paper edges are lifting when you start to paint it. as its already painted I cant see it doing anything different.

Don't rub down on raw plaster. Get the mist coat on first. This will high light ant imperfections that can be filled or rubbed down. Follow on with full coats afterwards. A "contract" matt is best for first coats as there is no vinyl in it. Most paint don't actually say " Vinyl" on thin any more.

Not all paints do this. There has been recently, complaints about Valspar emulsion paint smelling of cat urine. Valspar state that this was because a certain chemical was taken out of the paint. But has now been reintroduced. It has nothing to do with whether the paint has vinyl in it or not...

As the walls have already been painted, it will be of little use to use the Zinsser cover up. The Bullseye 123 or BIN might be the better option.

Never use PVA anywhere near anything that you are painting !!!! Re Prime anywhere that has gone back to raw plaster. Use another filler like Toupret or similar. Don't rub too hard when sanding after

Water based paint can take two or three weeks to fully cure and go hard.

Use a stain block like Zinsser BIN or a cheap oil based undercoat first all over the ceiling. When dry paint as normal.

Google a company called Kolorbond, they make paint especially for upvc so you can paint it any colour you want.