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It seems to be most prominent in the bathroom, every 30 seconds or so there is a short rattle, this happens out of the blue when no taps or appliances are running, heating is off etc. This morning it started and sounded like it wasn't going to stop. I turned on the basin mixer tap in the...

Hmm, just checking the boiler manual, and it says it's not designed for a direct cylinder. So I would assume in that case it needs an F+E tank?

My heat source is an oil boiler and it is a wet heating system. I thought it was an open vented system as there is a feed and expansion tank in the attic. However, on closer inspection, the F+E tank is not actually connected to anything. So it looks like it was at some point it was changed to a...

Awesome, that worked, only a trickle came out without the pump. I let that run for a while and then turned the pump on, it then sputtered to life and all seems good now. Thank you @cross thread

We had a water outage in our area yesterday that is fixed now, but we are now not getting any cold water to the shower mixer. All other taps are fine. The shower is fed by a pump in the hotpress. When running the hot water the pump is running but if the mixer is switched to the cold the pump...

I'm not sure how well the system has been maintained as we're not in property that long, but at the very least we haven't had any issues. All the rads get nice and hot, no cold spots. It looks like only the downstairs rads have the 10mm pipes too, upstairs seems to be standard sizes. There's...

We just had someone out to advise on switching from oil heating to gas. He advised that microbore piping could cause issues with a gas boiler, and said if it was him he'd update the piping to standard size at the same time. We have solid floors so this is no small job breaking up concrete in the...

The boiler does indeed heat the rads and hot water all in one, there is no separate zones in the house. There is the one room stat as I posted above which is in the kitchen, and there is a programmer in the living room. I am aware there are different types, but I'm not 100% certain on which I...

If I set the stat to zero and turn the heating on from cold, the boiler still comes on and stays on. I assume that should not happen?

I did ask in the non-UK forum but it doesn't appear to get a lot of traffic! As for why I want a smart switch? Why does anyone? In the winter the heating looks after the water, but in summer when the heat is off the water is usually only heated as needed, for showers etc. I don't use the clock...

Yeah that looks interesting. Not that many reviews though which makes me apprehensive.

Hmm, I waited a few minutes and it did turn off, likewise I turned it back up, and it turned back on after a few minutes. I just would have thought it would be instant. No other stat in the house. It is a Grant Euroflame 50/90.

Immersion switches in Ireland are typically rated at 20A

I'd like to replace this flash immermat programmer with something smart that can be controlled/programmed remotely. It only controls the immersion heater, and should be rated at 20A (Ireland). Can anyone recommend something reliable/safe?

I have this thing on the wall and I have no idea if it's doing anything, how can I verify it is working? With the heating/boiler on, if I turn this down to zero then presumably the boiler should go off immediately? (Spoiler: it does not)

I'd like to replace this flash immermat programmer with something smart that can be controlled/programmed remotely. It only controls the immersion heater. This is for Ireland so if I'm not mistaken the switch needs to be rated at 20A min. Can anyone recommend something reliable/safe?

I have this concrete slab along the back of my house I'd like to remove so I can put something nicer down. But I'm a bit apprehensive because... 1. There's an oil boiler outside (left in pic) and I'm concerned about the plumbing/wiring from that into the house, how deep could this be as...

It's on a vanity unit, no pedestal. I'm 99% certain the basin isn't screwed to the wall. I really hope it's not siliconed! The mirror blocks access from the top and the vanity has very poor access underneath (which is why I need to remove it to begin with!)

It doesn't seem to be fixed to the wall, but it does seem firmly fixed to this mirror! I'm afraid I'll take the mirror with it if I try and pull it out with too much force, and I'd like to avoid that. Thanks in advance!

Thanks, when I went to get a new one I realised that they're adjustable. So I was able to make enough of an adjustment to fix the issue for now, nice one!