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Noooooooo...... there is a thermal relay inside...... kinda like the pre-empting heater in a room thermostat... its gives the photcell an in built 'delay' and hysteresis so it switches cleanly.

That would be my next move....

I think that fuse is on the load side of the meter, but I agree that it may well be popped.

I reckon the meter outlet is the supply, then the inline fuse, then the P42 controller & finally the MEM switchfuse & off to the lights......

That's a RoyceThompson controller for a two part photocell. In the days before the 'modern' twist-lock units, there was a separate photocell module that mounted outside & the control box inside (or rather inside the lamp column control box). If you flick the switch to 'TEST' it will over-ride...

I have one of those that is branded 'RS'. The original maker was MK/Duraplug. Back in the day Duraplug was open to re-branding their product if there was enough volume - I have examples of the MK ToughPlug that are branded 'BBC' & 'BT' amongst others.

That isn't an induction heater! Its a copy of an ANTEX device that was originally made in the 90s. Its essentially two soldering irons joined together & the soldering iron 'tips' replaced by a bigger head block with a semi circle cutout. They have heads for both 15mm & 22mm pipe. I still have...

A topic for discussion: LED battens contain an electric power supply. As a general rule heat is the enemy of electronics, leading to a vastly reduced lifetime. Is the loft a suitable place for an LED batten?

Back it up with a nut or a nylok ?

Well not necessarily. The BS4343 standard on which these connectors are based defined several voltage bands which were designated different colours and also differentiated by having the earth pin at a different position based on the clock. Each voltage band was also available in 2 pole, 3 pole...

Well, no. The phase relationship between the 'permanent live' side of the motor & the STAR contactor is fixed. Lets assume, for the moment, that closing the STAR contactor makes the motor rotate CW. If, after a delay, the STAR contactor is opened & the delta contactor which is also configured...

This is on a lift controller so it can be assured that the motor is stopped before the direction is changed. The motor is 7 HP (not kW .... its a 1950s motor :-) )

That makes sense. I saw this on a (still in daily service) 1950s Evans Lift controller. It does indeed use open contactors as well as dashpot overloads. It was only later that it struck me that I'd only seen three contactors & I was struggling to understand how it acheived star/delta start &...

So here's one for the more.... seasoned Engineers here... Is it possible to create a Star/delta & reversing motor control starter using only THREE contactors? (I know it can be done with four but I'm sure I've seen a old-school lift controller that did it with just three)

Drawn a blank this time :-( First miss since July 2022 :-(

Well it could be chrome plated copper..... but that's usually more shiny/polished. If it is stainless steel there might be an issue with the brass olives not 'biting' into the stainless, which is much harder than copper. And you cant solder stainless steel with 'normal' plumbers solder!

I think that is a Wickes 'own brand' one about 20 yrs ago. I've just replaced one on my own system that was leaking around the pin.

My local park this morning .... (edited to fix a bad upload)

A ~200W SMPSU, the initial in-rush to fill that capacitor would be alot more than 2A. I wouldn't be surprised to find its in the order 50A for a few mS.

Nope. You have gotten a little confused with the calculations. You are right that 180W @ 24V is 7.5A BUT ... it is the power which is the constant..... so 180W @ 230V = 0.78A (ignoring losses & assuming your 230V to 24V converting widget is 100% efficient.... which it wont be.... but 0.8A will...