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This is not bad pricewise..... https://www.plasticdrainage.co.uk/320mm-level-invert-inspection-chamber/330mm-level-inver-chamber-base-4-way or search for Shallow Access Inspection Chamber but this is probably as shallow as you will get.

My preference would be to screw, from beneath if you can, or if not where a leg will cover the screws, a 3.6m long 6 x 2 timber beneath the decking where the pergola legs will sit and then drill through the decking and the 6 x 2 and use M10 Coach bolts a nice square washers to bolt the legs down...

For the relatively little extra cost just go with the 12mm.

You need a Gas Engineer or a Gas Certified plumber.

This may do the trick and can be trimmed flush when set.... https://www.toolstation.com/soudal-genius-gun-fire-acoustic-expanding-foam/p92610

You could try a test bed with another wipe or a few seperately and submerge them in bleach / descaler / drain unblocker etc and see what the effect is because putting high doses of chemicals into a macerator may have an effect on the gaskets or seals and that would be far worse than the problem...

Any good ...

The most common sizes are 32mm and 40mm but this set will cover you just in case you cannot get an accurate enough measure.... https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-strap-boss-black-110mm/82795

I would say you are quite safe in taking the blocks out as they will be doing no structural work at all. They have clearly been added to form the current opening and it will, most likely, have been a larger fireplace in the past so do it but take it steady and you will be fine.

Morning campers....

I would say so too but consider the felt option as you will have little chance of nailing 20mm clout nails into Oak boards so a self adhesive or heat applied felt would be needed.

You may have to resort to a resin fix option if you need to drill into a brick and the self mixing cartidge types are very good at doing the job. Drill the hole as normal and squirt in as much resin as you can so it fills the brick cavity then set in the bolt as before and snug it up on the...

One of my favourites as i use one quite often.....

You can drill into the mortar joint and use these or similar ..... https://www.diy.com/departments/diall-zinc-plated-carbon-steel-sleeve-anchor-m10-l-75mm-pack-of-4/1585024_BQ.prd?srsltid=AfmBOor5LYPzDXsSS3NQNmNlcpYo7ZWxw5BsOD19UcNO1ZbT7MReDJleu40...

I wouldn't have paid £900 for that either, badly fitted, not finished well at all and routing a channel for the glass doesn't actually take very long to do. Ask him to return and do what you want or ask for a discount as that looks like a DIY job.

There are lots of "socketed post bases" on the internet and something like this could work, you could recess the base into the top layer of 18mm flooring using a multitool trimmer or the upstands could be flattened or removed so it sits flush to the floor. House the rod and bolt heads into the...

If only it was on a nice VW, split screen camper van perhaps ? ......

You can grind in a narrow groove on the underside of the copings, doesn't have to be deep so around 5mmm is enough, and it will stop the water travelling back to the wall or alternatively a thin bead of silicone 10 - 20mm in from the edge on the underside of the copings would do the same thing.

You need the verges repointing or to avoid future recurrances you could install a dry verge system as shown on photo 3. A roofer would be the most likely choice but some builders may also undertake the job. I would obtain at least 3 quotes to compare like for like and decide from there.

Realistically nobody wants to have to go to a bedroom through another bedroom and if it gets you what you need in terms of recognition as a 4 bed and the better money then spend the cash and get a corridor put in, you can't afford not to.