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At the Nest Heatlink, connect live to 2. Also the black wire, which is back to or from the boiler, should be connected to 3 of the Heatlink.

Hi Andrew but I think he is right? OP, don't forget the blue wire from old 5 which is live, but don't know what is it for.

Should be: Neutral, Live, Loop from live to 2, Grey cable (Central Heating On) 3, loop from 2 to 5, Black (Hot Water On) 6. What is your boiler version? with two big dial knobs, or all push bottoms. I am thinking what is wrong with your first PCB.

Hive is an on/off control, and Nest is TPI (adding 1% to 2% extra gas saving above on/off heating controls) and OpenTherm compatible.

Diverter valve

Yes, it is Corgi HomePlan. I occasionally work for them. Their service guidances are written black and white to do burner pressure checks. It was failed by an individual.

I am a RGI, and believe there is no excuse for any gas operative not to carry out a basic 26-9 check on a boiler service.

Don't know where is this wire from inside the boiler.

Two of two port valves for S plan? Might be a faulty valve for hot water.

Make sure 5 of the Nest is having 230v power.

check if you have a 230v to the white wire of the three port valve, for most of middle position valves.

For three port valve, it is a Y plan, you need three signal outputs from any programmer, either Nest or EP2002. They are: hot water off, hot water on and heating on. If you are sure the heating on is connected correctly, then check further to the three port valve.

Sorry, but did you remove the old programmer?

"4" on Nest should also be connected to the wire which was on "1" of Potterton EP2002 before.

Using the wires between existing UP2 and Honeywell roomstat to connect T1 and T1 on heatlink of Nest to the new Nest room stat which should be placed at the same location of your old stat.

Nest has it own stat so just remove your existing stat.

Up to 15%? It is too much to be true!

According both of the manuals, remove the link between 7 and 8 on terminal block X9, link them to OT1 and OT2 of the Nest Heatlink.

Check the diaphragm and micro switch on the diverter valve. There is a pin on the diverter valve which comes out when hot water is on, this pin is pushing the micro switch.