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I was going to do that but I can’t feed a new wire as such, I have to use the same cable with brown, blue And earth. would the above work? Boiler 3 (L) to New Stat 4 Boiler 5 (N) to New Stat 3 New Stat 4 (L) connect to New Stat 1 Boiler 4 (SL) to New Stat 2 ?

Can someone confirm this, please? I want to take another go at this and rewire from scratch.

LIKE THIS?

yep makes sense... so terminals 3 is live, and 5 is neutral which has 240 volts... so easy to power up the stat from here. 15743699100817916200797039582658 by da3533 posted 30 Oct 2020 at 2:09 PM Boiler 3 (L) to New Stat 4 Boiler 5 (N) to New Stat 3 New Stat 4 (L) connect to New Stat 1 Boiler...

So in fact, if i powered the new stat using the mains, then use 3 and 4 to 1 and 2 of the dry contacts on the new stat, this should work.... as the new stat should close the switch when temperature is set...

I’ve put the honey well back in. when I turn the temperature above 10, I hear a slight click then the boiler turns on. So something must be contacting the boiler to turn on. I’ve left it as it is because it works. Yes, think this is connected to a conjunction box somewhere. As 3 is live,4 is...

i gave up. i just put back the Honeywell back in.. and when i turn it, it clicks then i can hear the boiler turn on... i think the honeywell just makes both brown and switch wires connect to join terminals 3 and 4 which turns on the boiler.....

Hi just checked the voltage using the multi meter ... when I connect my meter to brown and switch live, it shows 200v. When I test brown and blue, it’s 0 yep, the honey well did work slightly in the sense that once it turned higher than 0 , it clicks and the boiler did turn on...

I am going to get a multimeter from my brother's house. In the meantime, i have taken photos of my boiler. It doesnt look like its connected... i am assuming 3 for 4 is the cable connected to the stat...... but the earth wire which was supoose to be the switch live, is not connected...

I assume that you have set any existing timeswitch / programmer to be permanently 'on' 24/7 - yes all on Thanks for your response. Will try this. Also, the thermostat suppose to have started up at least as the L and N should have been able to power it but didn't... so looks like its faulty...

The wiring is exact how it suppose to be and the thermostat does not turn on. think its faulty? This is what's at the back of the Honeywell stat.

Hello I have a combi boiler used for hot water and central heating. I currently have a very old Honeywell thermostat (attached) which has stopped working and want to replace it with a newer one I've just bought. The wires from the wall are as follows: Brown wire Black wire a wire that has...

Hello Does anyone have the dimensions of this washer? Adp 8132

I just checked the pressure and its 0 bar. nothing in it! is 3.5bar ok to fill/

Just an update.. i doubt its the vessel, as the water in the tundish is not dripping, its flowing through.

Hey Everyone, This has been happening for time now. When ever the cylinder is fired, after around 10mins of boiling, the tundish is seen with water dripping frequently and later stops. After which, there is no further hot water from the taps. When home, i will check the pressure on the...

Ok got it. It's just that, I have no money left for that. I just thought I could save money by emptying it and refilling.

Why do I need to? I'm only emptying the cylinder, the same way an owner would do in order to apply fernox ds-3 to remove limescale from the tank. This takes just, draining and filling . Do I need a specialist for this? Or..