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The product you recommended looks brilliant. Thank you for suggesting it. As it is heavy duty and for commercial activity, I am hoping it can handle the unpredictable gusts of wind which seem to come my way. Thanks

Thanks @Harry Bloomfield that gadget would provide a solution to my issue I would order but the reviews are not promising. 3.3/5 with one person describing the items as 'Not fit for purpose, cheaply made and not worth the money' :mrgreen::mrgreen: Are there any other Cord Operated Door...

It's a kitchen door. And opening the door is the only way to get ventilation in the kitchen. So need a way to key it open/fixed position But I need the door closer, because without it, the wind swings the door violently open, causing damage. It's a balcony door. Is there another solution...

Can anyone recommend a suitable door closer which is also able to hold open the door? Ideally, something I could just pick up at Screwfix, toolstation, B&Q etc Door opens outwards I). Top of door to safest part to drill to avoid glazing is 75mm II) Top of door frame to safest part to drill...

Can anyone advise on the correct parts I need to restore my window. I have marked the area in red where I am referring to. It is like a rubber seal which is either no longer present or it has, in some cases shrunk and cracked In picture 2, the gap is on the larger side (9.5mm)

There's a large (8mm) gap between the top of my timber window/door and the lintel. The original material appears to have shrunk and it has left the gap. What would be the best material to use to fill this gap? Silicone? Also, do I need to remove the existing material?

Not a lounge, its a dark, dingy cupboard room (nobody in the family uses). It contains the cutout, consumer unit, paint, modem, my tools and other miscellaneous stuff. So wasn't bothered, how it looked as long as it worked practically. However, @EFLImpudence has twisted my arm :mrgreen: The...

I did away with plugs altogether and just screwed some 19x38 tile batten behind the PB Nice strong fixing and this switch is not going anywhere :mrgreen: To be honest, I should have done this in the first place (a few years ago) when I originally replaced the switch

Genius! I like this a lot... So that's how you overcome the lack of clearance if you cannot mount to the side and don't want to use blanking plate. Brilliant solution. Thanks.

You got me :mrgreen: I am a good friend. Think I found the purist in the group.. These were the Rawl plugs used and they are suitable in plasterboard Respectfully, @FrodoOne it's the weekend. Can we not be so uptight? Oh I like this... So it's perfectly fine to tell someone in a similar...

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Friends manky bathroom pull cord is detaching from ceiling. It's currently being held up by one rawl plug and screw, when there should be two of both. Wiring is slightly exposed They want me to come 'sort it now' because they're scared the electrics is dangerous', it could cause a spark, which...

Many thanks for the advice. Will follow.

That's brilliant - Thank you. Also surprised some of the purists haven't chimed in. Perhaps, this topic is too dull for them? :mrgreen: 100% agreed I do not have space at the moment. Light switch is on the RHS and Electrical Cutout is on the LHS. To do the job, I would have to move the...

Voila, it's working! The culprit was an MCB that had tripped and a blown 5A fuse. I observed a leak dripping onto the electrics associated with the door entry system, so suspect this was the genesis of the issue. The intercom buzzer still does not work (old issue) will come back later for...

Thanks The cable runs straight up and along the ceiling, then disappears due to plaster. I have marked in blue the wire path that is visible. I don't see any nearby place the power source could be. The communal electrical cupboard is about 6 meters away. I am trying to obtain a key to check...

If I wanted to to mount the socket besides one another 1. Would I need to replace the existing pattress box with one with a side knockout? 2. Or is there a way to drill into the existing plastic pattress box to run the cable? Also, if the existing pattress is drilled, would I need to protect...

Is the power supply likely to be in close proximity (less than 5m) to the relay or could the power supply be anywhere/far further?

Great thread title :mrgreen:

The intercom is not working for anyone in our block of flats Everything worked fine yesterday. However, visitors cannot ring the external buzzer to alert the flat owner of there presence. They cannot be buzzed in and you cannot communicate on the intercom. I believe that the fault lies...