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cured this exact problem with a makita last year if your careful no visible damage i used my 12v bosch angle grinder 2 slots side by side 1-2mm apart worked into each other and big screwdriver you can replace with the correct length hex bolt and a washer no need for a replacement just make sure...

another thing to keep in mind iff the door is on the long wall it may not be possible to get a 2000x 1220mm in if it requires to go in at an angle into a corner and there is not the space to manipulate as in the diagonal is greater than the length so just check first before cutting

is the 2mx1.8 external or internal floor size?? the only reason i ask is if its external wall size and you have say 12mm cladding and 70mm frame that reduces the floor area by 164 so 1836x 1636 so 3sqm where as a 2.440x1220mm sheet is 2.9sqm so full length at the door odds and sods at the the...

try the same experiment when not charging you batteries overnight in my case fridge and fridge freezer 135w each about 30% on so average 85wh freevew recorder boxes x3 av 15w each so 45wh all tvs and tv boxes will have some draw even when on stanby not the o.5w perhaps 10-20w occasionally as...

worth keeping in mind just because its sold in the uk on an internet platform does not mean it has any protection at all for example it can have a gtee it can have a ce mark it can have a returns policy but not within uk law so ce mark just means "china exports" the gtee will have no uk...

in my humble opinion, the only solution that will add enough strength is first and last spindle and base rail to be welded as one from steel and screwed into the handrail rebate with large tabs anything else relies on the rigidity off 14 small [compared to length and large...

to be honest a sealed door is very very different to an open door/gate where all planks expand and contract freely unconnected to each other so any slack on the joints will sag lock side when you have txg in contact and well painted it acts more like sheet material so gives excellent bracing so...

other general thoughts gluing edges is almost against the rustic look as in you cant sand the surfaces flush as it removes any texture loose full length 6mm[5.5mm]ply tongues in a 6.35mm routed groove is perfect as it allows plus or minus 0.5mm character between planks if you want to tie...

scaffold boards are selected to be virtually knot free very stable very very strong and are supplied clean round here you can get either around £1 a foot they are full off character iff used as long as cheep equals good quality and good value i will keep using them ;)

comes up as "doesnt exist "when i look

normal would be brick/sleeper/block for this job as a freestanding structure on a relevant foundation like slabs or even just soil as the oblong shape in general gives sufficient support

thats me told lol if it goes on till say 2034 i will be 83 and probably doolally or senile so the snow on the screen from no aeirial input will probably be stimulation enough ;)

other points for scaffold boards allow enough spare so you can plan to cut off the ends iff that is your preference rather than trying to lever off as damage will happen Easiest way to de-band is cut off the board about 25mm before the band starts and cut down each side about 15mm in from the...

another point the boards will have to be partly de-banded on any 2 mating faces or iff a 2-3mm gap between loose boards is a problem its also worth keeping any spare bands as you can jazz up shelf front faces or fix to the supporting brackets as 2 examples

keep in mind unless they are feature brackets, they will stop perhaps 50mm short off the front face so when selecting boards to join together make sure its a full width board at the front face to give greatest support also unless the edges are planed to clean full boards are 227mm/9 inch so...

Because its triangular, the roofline at the fence will start above the fence at the back and only touch the fence as it gets to the front or you have to slope front to back on the garage edge so it hits the level off the fence plus perhaps 50mm to give you the slope might be easier to orientate...

to me the bit visible below the bottom tread at an angle looks exactly square the one above looks perhaps 20mm longer suggesting a tread perhaps 15mm thick can be added to give equall riser /step distances

house shed and lean too 3 different locations

mines is clipped to my fence which is bad practice in my case its very small cable clips for phone cable with a very small cable tie looped through the clip and around the cable that with a small amount off pulling will seperate so with fence failure will be greatly reduced chance off dammage...

general comments not sure what you want to router but a string in situ is not really router compatible half inch router around 70mm from cutter edge for base to run on and 1/4" perhaps 45mm with a trim router down to perhaps 30mm