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Thanks @Notch7 I hadn't considered that at all. It makes sense, but would laying slim joists directly on the concrete be better? I quite like the idea to keep wood off the concrete just in case of damp

Cheers. For a small project like this, is specific floor pir like ThermaFloor going to make a real difference? Load is just going to be a few people, no heavy furniture

I keep my photos in Google Photos and I know you can't copy paste the link in a post as they're private, but Chrome let's you copy paste an image instead of a link. E.g into paint or a word doc or an online forum. Except it doesn't work here, see my post...

Thanks for the heads up. Bloody Google, I'll fix 2mrw

The old hothouse I'm restoring into a garden room has a solid concrete floor. The way it's built into a slope, half is a slab on the ground and the other half is suspended (see a couple of photos below. Internal footprint is ~2.75x5m and I've never used PIR like this before, is it load-bearing...

How would you find the holes accurately for the rawl plugs? Put the board in position and pre-drill all the way into the wall, remove to fit the rawls, and put back? Fixings which avoid the need seem to be a winner - I think concrete screw is the fixing I didn't know about for this job.

I want to add internal insulation to solid-brick walls. They are plastered and papered in good condition and I don't really want to strip that off. I want to minimise the depth added so I don't want to batten on top of PIR boards - thinking 40-50mm PIR (based on rough U value calcs). Insulated...

If it's not completely snapped off then it's worth a go. As others have said the plant will regrow quickly otherwise. I've done this once or twice and had ok results.

Thanks, that would be about ideal actually. Would I be best screwing perpendicular to the angled piece, or perhaps mending strips (if that's the right term I've never used them) are better like you see on fabricated trusses?

I'm recovering this old Victorian greenhouse, the top part totally replaced on existing brick base. Approx 5x2.75m I got someone to help with the roof and they added 3x2 cross braces as it was not rigid enough. Now I'm panelling it out, I would like to raise the braces for greater height, about...

This is something I wonder too, they say "if we can't repair it you pay £90 callout charge". It seems they phone you to confirm the appointment so I would be very keen to make sure they understand the issues. The current situation is the boiler goes off about once a week and when we go up, the...

So we got a plumber out yesterday and the short version is: it's the primary H/E (a pinhole leak he thinks). Longer version: He could see the water seeping down from behind the venturi from the spot I showed above, but removing the cover and burner it wasn't actually wet. He checked the seal...

It has all the signs of persistently being damp. Reason is fine as it comes and goes, but a wall that's always wet will start to look messy... Like yours. Water is definitely running down from the top from somewhere, in a slow seep. I think you said water pools above... That is a very likely 2+2...

No, it isn't. I've shown a photo of the water running down that threaded metal section at the front. I sat and watched it yesterday for a bit and after drying that bit I could see water start to seep into the thread from above - this IS how the water is arriving into the tray, the plastic pipe...

To repeat myself, that's not where the water is coming from (and the condensate pipe was already inspected since that's where he originally thought/hoped the problem was) I found a manual diagram and marked it since photos are tricky - it's not so far as I can tell from the venturi but the...

Don't worry I'm not touching anything. I'm only going as far as removing the external cover to try and see where the leak is (with it turned off at the mains), and to keep it dry until the plumber can get here. I have no intention of trying to fix it or do anything else myself but it was 1/2...

In fact it's actually damp above the thread. Hard to get a good photo but it seems it's not maybe the thread leaking but something higher up?

So we thought this was a bit better as no leaks and far fewer problems so I've been lax at getting someone out, but it's clearly still wet and now starting to get messy. I am 90+% sure the water is coming from this threaded section below the main combustion unit, you can see the thread is...

We have a garden room built on top of an old half-cellar (underground one side only due to slope). The floor is a concrete slab built on a steel girder framework inside the cellar and it is sucking all the heat out - leave the heating off overnight and it's down to single figures by morning. A...

For wood your local builder's merchant might be best. There are a couple of national companies specialising in railway sleepers of various types but I don't think there's any magic cheap option unless you luck out on Facebook Marketplace. I'm a fan of reclaimed oak but they are harder to find...