Search results

mirror mirror, on the wall where the heck's my crystal ball.

press the button marked 'eco' this should set the water to 'demand' only

thats pretty low for a combi. the worcesters you are looking at are set to deliver at between 13 and 17 litres for optimum performance, a smaller worcester. it would still work, but you'd not see your moneys worth. get your installer to properly measure flow and pressure, but it looks like...

based on what :?

but of course.. long day, no brain left :)

i suppose i should know, but why :oops:

You have 240 on your permanent live. Check the brown wire on the zone vale motor for 240v, if present and the valve does not open then the motor is duff, however you will also need to remove the head and check that the spindle is not stuck. You should be able to turn it about 90 degrees with...

Post a pic and I'll talk you through it tonight.

Just looked on my laptop and there isn't a service kit for this. If its the connections, you only need 3 3/4 washers, but if it's the spindle you need to replace the whole valve.

Plus you really need to drain and refill a couple of times to have a hands of doing a decent job of it. Consider having a heating filter added as well, this could do a bit of the work for you.

Iirc on the Worcester website, they suggest that their combi's are suitable for that size property, providing the mains is up to it. I have a greenstar 35 cdi in mine and detect minimal pressure loss when multiple hot water demands are on. I have a 22mm cold mains right up to the last meter and...

That's exactly what my last one was like. Not bad for a parts changer :wink: :lol:

Your old valve is motor open motor shut going by the wire colours. You'll have to look for a conversion diagram. If I remember correctly you may have to convert both valves to motor open spring return.

the paddle is sticking on the valve body, or some shiz has built up on the valve seat. tis a simple enough repair, about £30 for the body or less if you use a service kit.

sounds like a your ch zone valve is having issues. chack for 240 volts on the ch valve BROWN wire OR if you have a mid postion valve check for 240 volts on WHITE and GREY wires.

due to design, pretty much anything on this boiler requires th ecombustion chamber to be opened so you're looking at a pro to do the job. probably/possible the pcb...bit of a weak spot.

i know what you mean, but most of the ones ive been to have been fairly 'normal' folk. the worst are teenage boys bedrooms.there's no 'retch' emoticon.

looked outside boys :lol: , getting loads of calls for 'no heating' still. particularly the elderly and unwell.

not digging Tony but, pump proving switch fires the boiler , of this i am certain but the stuck dhw spindle will trigger the pump, firing the boiler also. It is unusual for a microswitch to stick, usually the pin sticks, leaving the microswitch 'made'. the last 2 times i've been called out...

Unless its the pump proving switch which is what I seem to change when this occurs. OP best to cut the power and have your gas safe eng test for continuity through BOTH switches as you can't really visually test this fault :)