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I spoke to Newark the manufacturer in the end and they said the base is now rated at Grade 2 on a standard Grade 3 cylinder for the Part L requirements so recommended that since the head height wasn't above 10m. Having got it home it turns out all the fitting points are all in different...

I just checked the height between the bottom of the HW cylinder and the level of the water in the tank in the loft and its pretty much bang on 10m

Would it make any difference if I got a grade 2 tank rather than grade 3? I haven't measured the head from the tank to the cylinder but its probably not far off 10m or so with the tank in the loft and the cylinder three floors down in the basement. Not sure what the cost difference is tho.

I had a new hot water cylinder fitted approximately 7-8 years ago, its an indirect 210ltr Grade 3 'greenlag' from Newark Copper Cylinder Co. It appears to have sprung a leak underneath the base as there is a puddle of water around the base, I've checked all the joints but they appear dry. Is...

I'm looking for a paint suitable for an external smooth rendered blockwork wall. Some of the wall will get wet including an area near a pond which may get splashed occasionally from the water flowing into it. I've come across Stormshield self cleaning masonry paint which looks like it will do...

No, if anything it was damp in places since its a retaining wall. Only reason I can think of was the hydrated lime had been sitting around for a while. It was still dry and powdery, not lumpy though.

A couple of months ago I repointed a sandstone wall with a lime/cement based mortar (mix 5:1:1 sand:cement:hydrated lime). Since we've had a period of heavy rain and the wall has got damp/wet, I've noticed that some of the mortar has begun to 'flake' on the surface and drop away. It looks...

Has anyone used this product? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-Sealfix-Waterproof-Paste-375ml_W0QQitemZ260202520120QQihZ016QQcategoryZ1280QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQtrksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem I have a leaking cast iron downpipe (has a crack in it at the joint) which needs repairing and...

I guess what I was getting at in terms of the software/dongle solution is if any DVB USB sticks you see around for £20-40 have software that displays the signal strength for particular channels. Presumably this way you can work out if the aerial signal is strong enough.

I need to measure the signal strength on several downleads from a roof mounted TV aerial. I'm aware that some freeview boxes do this but are there cheap handheld (standalone) units that do this? Alternatively I can use my laptop but would like to know if there is any software/USB dongles that...

Does anyone have any experience of using Kardean flooring and in particular the quality and sound absorbing properties compared to other materials? The builder working on our development is planning to overboard the existing floorboards with a thin sheet of ply and then lay Kardean 'wood...

I should of pointed out that the Maxview 4 way splitter I replaced the labgear with doesn't need an amp - the signal is strong enough. What I couldn't understand is that using the Labgear, even without the amp the signal was crap

So here's what I found out, removing the masthead 4-way splitter and temporarily joining the aerial output to one of the downleads resulted in a perfect signal. Putting the masthead amp back in again degraded the signal a lot and it didn't make any difference the gain setting on the amp or...

signal is even worse, digital TV has no channels and analogue TV a lot grainier

A few months back I installed a digital aerial on the roof which was connected to a freeview box on the ground floor. Reception was perfect as the aerial has good line of sight from the roof. I needed a second connection to an analogue TV in the bedroom so ran another cable to it from the...

The only problem is the builder plans to sell them privately by sticking a sign up outside rather than use an estate agent. I wonder what the legalities are of diclosing a neighbour's dispute in this situation?! Also, I was wondering if anything in the new Part E Building regs is inforceable...

I've enjoyed a peaceful few years at my current residence - a large detached house with five flats in. The guy upstairs has decided to renovate and sell the two flats he owns which are directly above our flat. He's got a builder in on a profit share who is attempting to turn them around...

This is for an office door. The idea being that the intercom will be used for visitors with the door latch operated by staff using the handset inside the office. The door access fob system will be used by staff to open the same door latch to open the door using their designated keyfobs. The...

The only problem then is I would need to have two separate door latches on the door operated by AC/DC voltages. They would also need to operate at the same time to open the door. Unless there is a door latch which supports 12v AC/DC ?

Would the intercom system itself be able to support DC? If it did, presumably if I replaced the door latch with a DC version this might work?