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If you are able to, drill a smaller diameter hole right through the wall from the inside. Then go outside and drill half way through with the larger drill. Finally drill with the larger drill from the inside. Hopefully they should line up OK.

You only mention the exhaust. Both exhaust and intake should be on the same wall or roof about 2 metres apart. This prevents wind blowing into one without being "balanced" by the other.

Minor but important concept to grasp: a 100 Watt lightbulb gives out 100W of heat....... as does a 100W motor doing the mixing, a 100W old fashioned TV, etc. Anything doing its job within a closed box (house) emits heat and that heat goes into the box. The exception is something like a tumble...

It does seem counterintuitive but I guess someone at Rehau discovered it was good to circulate the water around the floors with their pump (imagine both boiler connections shut off....) and top up the temperature as needed by the bleed of hot water through the thermostatic valve bottom left...

You have had the pump itself checked, so if it's not working you will need to get a meter and check its supply. The red box should do the switching but it, in turn, needs a supply. Maybe that's not being provided by the controllers. Our controller is a long box with leds which light to indicate...

Hello, Our UFH is identical, also labelled Rehau. The boiler feed is to the bottom via the thermostatic valve as yours. The thermostatic head (bottom left) should be set to about 30 or 35 degrees. It has a capiliary tube going to a capsule at the right end of the lower Manifold feeder. One...

Air can only leave the room through your venting system if fresh air can also get into the room. Open a window in a nearby room and see if there's any difference. Opening a window in the bathroom itself will allow the fan to suck fresh air through without removing the moisture laden air. Roddy

We built our house 12 years ago, well insulated and airtight with a heat recovery ventilation system. Our builder had a lot of experience in low energy houses and underfloor heating was taken for granted. He was very keen, however, to reduce the thermal mass of the poured floors and so used...

I totally agree that this is a poor design. In my last house the motor burnt out after only 7 years which wasn't a great surprise. Any time I touched the motor it was energised and very hot. It sat on a hot pipe which added to the problem. At that time, c1995, the Honeywell motors were difficult...

We used Multipanel, which is a sort of plywood base for one room and https://www.wetwall.co.uk/ for the other, which is nearer to a fine MDF. They are, of course, both waterproof ! I don't know if they are still made in the same way nowadays. Roddy

PS - that was 12 years ago and they both look fresh to this day! Roddy

Hello, No I don't have much experience of these - just the 2 bathrooms when we built our house. Roddy

Wall panels every time! They are usually dead flat so very, very easy to wipe clean. They are also very easy to seal neatly to the shower tray using silicone and a tool like the Screwfix: "No Nonsense Smoothing Tools Straight Joints (92313)" Some have a little texture on the surface and most...

The thermostat is set to about 30 degrees in your photo. Why not raise it to 50 degrees. Then you could mix with cold in your shower or bath - it would "go further" that way.

Our pump is on a timer. It comes on just before get up for 30 minutes and again just before we go to bed. We have a manual override zo turn it on before we use the bath. Outcome? It's great to get almost instant hot water and bath top ups are hot, too, even in winter. I turned it completely...

We have a return flow as you described. The check valve ensures water only flows from the supply connection - which is higher and has hotter water. When our check valve failed (stuck) water was fed from both connections to the bathroom, taking much longer to warm up. That's only significant...

What pressure are you going to have in this?

Our 11 year old Vaillant boiler failed at exactly the same place. water was leaking from the join. The replacement cost was so high (quoted around £750 for the part) I opted for a new boiler but kept the old one to dismantle. The parts are joined together but it's not silicone - it's some sort...

The moisture from the drying clothes pulley will migrate around the house. It's not a bad idea to extract the damp air near where it is produced, so if the clothes are hung up in a utility room or kitchen, then the extract valve in that room would do the job. Even if the pulley is somewhere...

Hello, we built a new house in 2011 with MVHR system. As long as you can draught proof your house, then your project should work. Halls and "dead space" do not need ventilating but if you really do dry clothes in the airing cupboard then it would be sensible to have an extract vent there. I...