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Chip resistance is as much about getting good adhesion to the substrate, before even thinking about the quality of paint.

Your best bet is to visit small local joinery companies, one of them might have a bit of hardwood in the bottom of the rack which they can put through the planner for you.

If it’s Swedish redwood then no wonder it’s rotten, this is just another name for quick growing softwood pine from Sweden. 90% of all of softwood construction timber used in this country is Swedish redwood and it’s nothing special. While it can be used outside without regular treatment it won’t...

Several options if you don’t want to replace the slat, dig out the rot then simply drill several small holes right through the slat so water can drain the when you oil the bench just work the oil well into this area. Alternatively, you can dig out the rot, soak it in oil and turn the lat over...

There is no reason why you couldn’t fix to this wall. It looks to me the only reason these bolts have failed is because the holes are too big. Move the hoop slightly over and use 10mm concrete bolts with a 10mm masonry drill bit...

I wouldn’t say it’s any thing you have done unless you started cleaning it when it wasn’t fully cured. It does need sorting one way or the other as water could get down the back. With regards to getting them back and fearing they might think you been finicky, so what you’re the customer. Having...

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It sounds to me like your on the right track with your approach, I do wonder why your gluing and screwing before moving on to fitting brackets and blocks, personally I'd do it all at the same, not sure if it would make a difference it's just the way I would do it.

I lot will depend on which part of the tread is creaking.

I am a sprayer by trade, so can say with some certainty you have a lacquered finish on here, the center section is veneered and the blister should be repaireable by injecting with white wood clue (though cant be 100% sure as we don’t know what the original glue was). Strip the finish off the...

I do like foxhole, he’s given some great advice in the past, but I think he is been a bit too simplistic here. It’s not that simple to get a uniformed finish across all surfaces I am a French Polisher with 30 years’ experience, if you employed me to do this, I would be telling you they will be...

If you were to ask a plaster to skim that wall he should, if he's pride in his work, walk striaght out. Take the whole lot out and start again or reboard over the top. Anything less is a bodge

Fair point.

Curious, why not in the middle, just wondering what I’m missing. My theory was it would be no different to a ledger board.

In that case why not just use anchor bolts and fix the joist to that wall?

Rather than bower beams could you fit a bespoke metal U channel from the underside then attach with bolts if you have room on the back side just to slip a nut on

Not really but if you are concerned about that just don’t screw the Perlin to the bracket, this will allow sideways movement and expansion in the Perlin, any vertical heave will be taken up by the roof itself.

I would just go belt and braces and then some, get a metal angle bracket made in 10mm mild steel, the width of the Perlin 150mm long on one side (this is what the Perlin will sit on) the other leg 300mm long add a little triangle piece wielded into the corner. Have 6 * 9 holes drilled in the leg...

Whatever that is in the photo it’s a mess, I'm not sure what it is but would say if the top was lacquered it would be either sprayed or curtain applied and if that’s the case I don’t think it would create this had the process gone wrong so on that basis I’m going to say the top is oiled and any...

The ply and glue would likey cost more than a solid one