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Are you sure it is varnish or any sort of Lacquer finish, the reason I ask is it's more likey to be an oil than a lacquer and if that’s the case you will be able to sand and oil a small area around the repair rather than the whole top. Take a look at these for the filling...

Once your plug has gone as far as it will go by pushing in with your finger simply insert the screw 3 or 4 threads deep then give it a gently tap the plug will happily drive in flush with the service remove screw job done.

Clear silcone seal

can't see a problem myself. Think of it this way, if you could get a nice smooth finish with your just your mot 1 then you’d be happy (I presume). So look at the sand and cement your adding as not only a bit of added strength, but a means to float it level and it smooth.

First off I’m not a builder, but based on the only photo I can see, the timber over the white windows looks typical of how you would finish of a fascia. As for the other window, it just looks like they have filled it with off cuts. I don’t know how they plan on finishing this but to me no job...

7mm masonry drill bit, brown plug then these screws presuming 70mm is going to be long enough. If your going into very soft block you might get away without drilling and pluging. https://www.screwfix.com/p/turbogold-pz-double-countersunk-multipurpose-screws-5mm-x-70mm-100-pack/15276

Why and why??

If you do use PU glue, excess glue can be cleaned off with acetone (cheap nail varnish remover is normally just acetone) this must be done before the glue cures it will also help prevent staining.

Or find a local sprayer and get it finished properly.

More importantly than the wood is the finish. If you paint it (modern force grown timber) will move no matter how much you paint it, I would simply use a quality preserver such as Duck back, then recoat once a year. If you’re making the door from scratch preserve every piece all way round before...

It’s definitely a labour of love, this sort of work is all about the prep. If this was my door I would start with a 2 pack filler in any crack or holes then using a palm sander go 80 grit paper then go to 120 and possibly 180 to ensure a nice flat surface. If you really want to go all out then...

I 100% agree with Foxhole do not dip. Dipping will almost certainly blow the joints, and roughen the wood beyond just a light sand. They never look good wax after dipping either as it comes out a looking dirty. I would use a sander on the existing paint, go from 120 through to 240 then repaint.

Try this or a similar clear coat product. I would try lightly spraying the surface a couple of times to try and ‘strike back’ the colour, if that doesn’t work then try spraying some of the material into a small container and brushing it directly onto the scratch with a very fine brush...

Really? You really think if the UK falls into anarchy a couple of self-defense lessons are going to prevent you for been overrun by gun tooting marauding gangs and a store full of chopped meat and soup is going get you through a winter without electric?

French Polisher by trade here, just came across this and thought it might be useful for all if I cleared up a few things. Shellac mixed with meths is the solution used when ‘French Polishing’ using a rubber. The meths in shellac, which is a basic form alcohol and it will brush up any stain that...

No No, this will be fine, couple of things I would add though. Mask up around the hole before you start to fill, then remove the tape before it hardens this will limit the amount of sanding you need to do. Make sure you push it in really well, I tend to push it into the hole then dig it back...

Thank you Oops, I am happy giving any advise I can, the main problem is, and this thread is a perfect example, it’s very difficult to explain in words how to touch out a scratch, as I said in my original post so many different factors come into play. The other difficulty is even if could easily...

Moisture resistant MDF would be fine for a bathroom cabinet, it’s all about the sealing of it. It will take as many coats as it takes, don’t assume 2 primer and 2 topcoats will automatically do the job as it all depends on the quality of both the MDF and the paint. I would be more concerned...

The connectors do have a toothed ring in order to precent slipping off, however these won’t damage the pipe to that extent. You should be ok replacing like for like or use any other fitting. If you are concerned about the fittings been 15 years (and rightly so) I don’t understand why you’re not...

Again this only works on bare wood as it relies on the sawdust from sanding the wood to stick and colour the glue.