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Was going to say the cost of piles will probably be more than the conservatory. Also agree it might be better to take it down anyway. There is quite clearly a serious problem any way. and again underpinning what you have will be costly and might not even be possible

Was wondering that, by the sounds of things it is above the concrete in which case a bonded screed isn't possible

would need to se the fireplace that was going to be fitted in the opening and also a shot of the opening in the chimney breast

not sure quite what you mean are you talking about the final inspection, if so nothing really.

Ok to partial fill but fill at the top not the bottom

please you're bringing back nightmares, we once had to pilot and nail over 1000 tiny nails once. not sure if that was worse than nailing a whole velodrome by hand, not on my own I will concede

Good work, it's looking good so far, anything else you need, just shout.

gives you a bit more weather protection if nothing else.but as you have found is a lot of work

butt hinges and I would never go below 3" 3" on a33/35mm door and 4" on a 44mm pair and a half for fire doors

doubt it will make any difference structurally, but a lot of faffing around, are you saying you started one end fixed noggins and then put the next upright in and so on then noggined out the top. But remember every time you create an extra unnecessary joint you add a point of weakness, as I...

probably, but your photos are too close up to see whats going on or even what part of the window it is. One thing I will say though is the sealing they have done is absolutely 5h1t

just happens sometimes when using 38x 19 battens, but with studs at 400 centres shouldn't be much of a problem. Any reason why you are using them, I can understand using them on the pitched roof to match in with existing, but I would have switched up to 25mm battens where possible. I wouldn't...

I doubt its lead. that's called undercloaking and it supports the mortar that you can see under the tiles, it also give an aesthetic finish. In it's self it doesn't provide any weathering, so from that point of view nothing to worry about, time will tell if any of the mortar starts to fall out...

we normally only soffit the front as its the easiest way to create ventilation. Though to be honest we only do that where head height is an issue as otherwise its warm roofs and no soffit.

If that's all your own work first time roofing, that's pretty tidy, it will get a bit more hairy when your stood on the ladder to if there's nothing below you. Be safe, get the scaffolder back to shoot the poles out a bit if your unsure. I always ask for a 3 or 4 ft over hang so you can get a...

firstly tile up to the bottom of your window and take some lead and fold it from the sill of the opening down over so it forms a double lap cover over the tile hanging. fit your window with the sill overhanging by the required amount. what I normally do is take some capping fascia and cut it...

cut right back to the bottom of the string if you like

fair enough, to be honest if you want it back it should be possible to sand the paint back off

decent Spanish slates to look out for are polaris prestige GM or GM prime they are about a quarter the price of welsh but are a lovely thin slate like welsh and very uniform in thickness, no pyrites and guaranteed 75 years I use them all the time now the prestige is a slightly lighter blue...

Yes your secondary insulation will prevent the bottom of the OSB equalising in temp with the air in the room. He mentions heat loss through the fascias. that should already have been taken care of. The open joist ends should have been insulated to the same degree as the roof deck. Hybrid roofs...