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some of that looks like it is coming away, hard to see how bad the rest is, but yes a decent job shouldn't need filling (maybe the occasional nick)and just a light sand to help the paint key, shouldn't actually need flattening out

Can do but won't ever look as bad as loads of individual planks, a real proper job would have a fibre smoothing compound over the top of the ply

how many coats, as it is shellac based it does dry a bit shiny and can take a few coats to stop the sheen showing through.

wouldn't recommend it, but I'm sure we have all done it at some point.

Zinsser does have good adhesion, but on a newly galvanised gate I would err on the side of giving it a mordant wash whatever you chose. You should be able to get 5 litres of mordant for about half that.

abso-bloody-lutely. On the plus side, providing the egger was installed properly, it can be left exposed to the elements for at least 60 days. How complicated is this roof if the SE has done the calcs then the archs drawings must be sufficient, assuming this is a plain flat roof.

yep only basic stuff though 10 mins in the morning and then a few realigning stretching exercises after work

I suppose time will tell in the long run, but it can only adhere as well as the layer it is painted over. I know too many painters now, who reach straight for the Zinsser rather than bothering with traditional prep such as sanding back first. It's going through the traditional prep stages that...

If it is freshly galvanised I would definitely give it a wash over with mordant, a coat of primer wouldn't go a miss either, will definitely give you a better finish. Then a decent metal paint as top coat.

if you want a decent finish then don't try cutting corners with self undercoating or one coat paints. Knotting on Knots one coat acrylic primer, light sand undercoat however many coats to get colour flat, light sand if grain is still raised between coats. 2 x topcoat Definitely do the prep and...

oil based undercoat is the old way there are better products out there now, the screwfix stuff is OK and can work I have used it plenty of times, it's probably better than the undercoat. If the stain is quite severe/maybe still a bit damp then something like Zinsser BIN, which contains shellac...

also take a wider shot covering an area 4 or 5 wide by about 10 high will be easier to see the mix. as suggested by someone else patterns do vary from batch to batch and also over time, expecting a perfect match from the 60s to now might not be possible. Samples of mixed bricks can be misleading...

That's really what you need again now, just make sure they have enough experience of building houses from the ground up and don't just do extensions etc. You say there is around £40k difference in the quotes you have, but you don't say what the contract value is. 40k out of a million is nothing...

a lot of it is down to experience, after a while in the game you can gauge how to deal with customers, the ones that you need to be strict with and those you can give a bit more trust to. You will find your feet and a system that works according to the type of works you do.

yep that's the problem you never can tell, what the weather is going to do. We normally leave most of the roof on whilst constructing the dormer and then cut the roof out after. Any decent builder should be able to keep the water out

Its 50 quid for each mm of wear to the plate not the amount of concrete you want to grind.

why April and not in a few weeks time. I wouldn't guarantee a rate or a fixed price that far in advance

I very much doubt they will be interested in the previous works providing your SE has all his calcs up to spec based on what's there. I wouldn't worry what BC think but be more concerned what your SE thinks if that wall is going to be taking a load after that it's down to whether you are happy...

Your expectations are well above what is supplied in modern day new build properties then. If a few gaps at hidden drywall junctions is all you have to worry about then be thankful. this really isn't the problem you're making it out to be.

yep 18mm OSB no point scrimping. I would put the deck on and go straight onto the fibre glassing ASAP