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the thickness of the packer is irrelevant

ah I see 100 is a different matter. sounds about OK otherwise, make sure both surfaces are evenly covered in glue, screw from both sides

The best thing you can ask for are references and examples of their previous work

500 charges that's probably about 10+ years worth for me or 20-30 years for a DIYer

trada tables say that 8x2 is just about OK. whats the roof currently made out of? Your other issue is that 10 degrees is into flat roof territory. There aren't many slates or tiles that work at such low pitches.

There shouldn't be any inherent bounce in the sub floor, it's block and beam, but the OP wants to introduce some insulation self adhesive underlays such as elastilon can be excellent. I have laid several floors on it. It is a great compromise between a floating and glued down floor. Personally...

what linseed oil have you used if it isn't boiled it will never really dry out, just soak in I would never use it for a floor it will just pick up dust and dirt for ever and a day. It will also seriously discolour and yellow over time. It also has very poor waterproofing properties. Boiled...

Not really, what is the pitch of the roof, even 8x2s are really underspeced for 4.5m span even at a 30-45 degree pitch. More importantly you say it's a conservatory, is the actual structure capable of taking the extra weight of the rafters and roof

right much clearer , but to be honest you really need to ask the question now. It could still be viewed as a single development

I think that judging by the top fixing arrangement you can be pretty sure it is a Sandtoft, I would concentrate your search there. My guess is it's a fore runner of the Rivius which isn't made anymore. You might be just as well contacting Wienerberger

VCL nailed to the deck then sealed with bitumen, then the insulation which has ply top deck fixed to all that. so order from bottom up. joists furring pieces ply sub deck VCL bitumen insulation with bonded ply top deck roof covering

get the stone from your grab company, they can grab it on at the front first and then drive on until they can reach everywhere

that's a lot of ****ing around, back in the day. First day on site, cut a pallets down to 2/3 their size and screw them together at an angle with a bit of bracing to form an A frame not the lightest I will grant you but took about 10 min s to make a pair. Throw them on the fire on your way off site

can't remember the last time I got the router table out. Normally knock one up when I need one from a bit of ply or MDF. Cut a hole in it, screw the router to it, make a fence up out of a bit of batten and sling it across two saw horses

I would just prime the whole lot with SBR and then just go straight in with tile adhesive

yep with joints staggered to the chipboard flooring below.

ha ha fair enough each to their own, I suppose I've never known anything else. Seriously though I ain't going to spend 250 quid on a hammer I would want it to bang the nails in on it's own for that sort of money.

will be fine, even if not fully efficient will be better than recirc

I just use folding plastic horses and don't worry about cutting into them. You might need three or four if cutting 8x4 sheets

Be assured they don't. I have a wall cupboard with a 12 setting dinner service and other stuff in and its been there for 15 years now Once you have levelled your cupboard you tighten the brackets to pull them in tight unless you are planning a wrestling match you won't knock them off. The world...