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Is the existing switch cable in a tube, running to the light? I ask this because joining onto the old cable is not ideal, and it would be a better job if there was a continuous new cable from the light to the new switch position.

This is the trouble with water-based. Sometimes you can put 10 coats on, and you can still see the blemish. How do you feel about using solvent based undercoat, possibly all over, to get a solid even covering, then back to the water based? Or you could try a water based stainblock type primer...

Can't see any issue with this. Was the decking ever painted/stained with anything BEFORE the Ducksback?

Is the paint solvent based or water based?

Yes, it's a cable system used to put in walls and ceilings, typically on concrete blocks of flats and offices. I think the advantage of it was you could put in straight in screed and plaster without further protection. (Bit surprised to see it under a wooden floor, but then again, why not?)

4 holes? Neutral parking terminal perhaps? Can you get them out of the bin?

Saw this - quite a few inaccuracies.

Looks to me that grey (sleeved brown) is also connected to the switch, but is 'hiding' behind another wire.

One of the strappers, isn't it?

Or, could you fit PIR sensors on the ceilings, and do away with the wall switches all together, and use the old switch cables? Though I still think changing to time lag switches is easier.

Looks like flats - that door has a lock on it. Is there a neutral at the TOP 2 way switch? If so, you could replace the switches for time-lag switches, and use the spare wire as a neutral.

Yes, you would need to replace the cable with the black wire for a new piece with a live, neutral and earth - since they've cut the other two wires off. The 3 gang switch can provide the live and neutral at least. But until we can confirm if the connector is neutral or not, nothing is definite.

How do we know the two wires in your very first photos you sent ARE lives, and not neutrals? We assumed they were lives, because there was a light switch in front of them - albeit not connected to the switch itself, but in a connector block. It appears the switch was just used to cover the hole...

So no cable will be less than 50mm from a finished surface? If not, then you are free to regular twin and earth cable.

Hang on, I think I'm giving you duff info here. I still don't get this. The void can't be accessed by anyone? So regular cable may be fine, slung in the void. Where's the other end of the cable go to?

If you can make sure the cable is 50mm or greater below the finished surface, then great. If not, you need earthed metal conduit. Or used SWA cable.

No, I don't know what he's on about either. Can you start again, and rephrase some of that?

At the 3 gang switch, you have a permanent live there. You have an earth there. The next step is to find out whether that connector block with the black wires in is a NEUTRAL or not. Do you have a voltage meter?

He or she has indicated that a 3 gang switch is the other side. There may be a neutral here. And an earth. He has not specified he wants a 13 amp socket. He could have a 2 amp or 5 amp round pin socket on the lighting circuit. He could have a 13 amp socket, if he doesn't overload it. He could...

If you'd care to read the comments, we are trying to find a way to alter it so it may be possible.