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  1. S

    Doorbell

    Yes, it will have been a doorbell with a built-in transformer once upon a time. Seem to recall they were all the rage in the early 2000s.
  2. S

    Changing back to standard light switch

    Read this above. And get rid of that link wire.
  3. S

    Changing back to standard light switch

    You have copied the other switch 2 gang switch exactly, which is the wrong thing to do. I didn't think you were going to copy the other switch as directly as that. Thought it was just the hall 2 way bit you were stuck on. There SHOULDN'T be a link wire for a start. Remove the link. Observe that...
  4. S

    Repair Paint Damage

    If I was you, I'd buy a tin or tins of whatever you think is the correct paint, carefully scoop out a brush-full, carefully put the lid on, and take it back to the shop.
  5. S

    Adding a socket

    That looks much, much better. Well done.
  6. S

    Adding a socket

    The switched fused spur is likely to have a 3 or 5 amp fuse in it, which is perfect for lighting, but very limiting for plugging things into the 13 amp socket.
  7. S

    Adding a socket

    What does the switched fused spur currently serve? Does it turn the main light on? If so, and you connect to the load terminals, you don't want your new socket to only be functional when the main light is turned on.
  8. S

    Adding a socket

    It's not easy for a beginner. Don't be tempted to shorten the overall length of the wires though, no one likes short wires.
  9. S

    Adding a socket

    That wiring is AWFUL. Too much exposed copper, which would certainly cause the wiring to short circuit.
  10. S

    Adding a socket

    Well it probably would be - it's 3 core SWA cable.
  11. S

    Repair Paint Damage

    Haven't you got any left-over tins of the original paint? Using matt could show up. You may need to sand, then re-fill, and sand again. You should water the first coat down just a little bit, on the new filler. If the original paint was done with a roller, and you are using a brush, you could...
  12. S

    TN-C-S or TN-S

    TNS, I would guess - because if it was TNC-S, I would expect the earth strands to go higher in the neutral block, and then a piece of 16mm2 earth cable coming out of the terminal on the top right.
  13. S

    Light switch plate (Box not deep enought)

    NOT EXACTLY - it looks like THOSE ones go AROUND the switch, rather than BEHIND the switch. (I could be wrong.)
  14. S

    Pre-Painted Wickes Door

    Be sure to sand the edges after the first primer - as the grain will be proud.
  15. S

    Light switch plate (Box not deep enought)

    I don't know if they are still in fashion, but you could get wooden spacers in a range of varnished finishes, which may look better.
  16. S

    Light switch plate (Box not deep enought)

    That's what you need if you don't want to change the box.
  17. S

    How do I wire this light fixture up?

    Whoops. Yes, they do look like sheathed singles, don't they? Matthew, I could be wrong about there being more wires pushed up into the ceiling.
  18. S

    Bathroom light flickering with switch in off position

    Have you had any electrical work done just before this happened?
  19. S

    How do I wire this light fixture up?

    They WILL fit in the single earth block. I suspect there may be three red wires joined together, stuffed up in the ceiling void. If so, THEY should going in the middle loop terminal. (Do NOT put them in the single earth terminal, no matter how tempting it may be.)
  20. S

    Help with 4 colour wiring

    Trace which cable goes to the LIGHT SWITCH, and tell us which one it is.
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