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You've wired it up wrong. There should be a switch cable to the light switch, and you've most likely connected the switched live of that to neutral.

Why have the cables with red and black suddenly become brown and blue?

Measurements??

30 amp blocks acceptable on a ring wired in 2.5mm2 protected by a 32 amp breaker.# If anything, the terminals can be quite big to get just two 2.5mm2 wires into - so make sure you get a good connection. I mention this because some blocks are so badly designed the thin wires can fall between the...

More sensible idea. Just buy some more plinth NOW, while it's still available, and put it down to experience.

Better idea. Have you got an off-cut of the plinth? You could cut out the damaged section, move one of the long lengths along, and fit the off-cut at one end.

Has someone tried too hard to 'blend' the join? New plinth would be the best solution. I suppose you could try some kind of clear varnish or stabiliser - but I think you're gonna see it. Does the manufacturer offer some kind of touch up paint?

Nice one.

Ok, try what I wrote just now - which is what you suggested yourself in post 12.

At the switch in the your original Timeguard picture, if you look at the taped up wires, you have a twin cable with red and black, and a cable with just a red. To confirm, is the single red and the black from the twin cable joined together? If so, on one side of your new 2 gang switch, the...

In your latest photo above, which side of the switch currently operates the hall?

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How does he turn his hall light on then? I assumed he was talking about another set of taped up wires, which is what he was asked.

Had enough already?? Presumably, the Timeguard could not accept all of the wiring that the original 2 gang switch used, and so one of the switches had to be done away with. NOW we have an opportunity to have two switches again - which presumably means the hall light can now be controlled from...

So what room does the Timeguard control? Do you have another switch for the hall? It looks possible the taped up wires may have been for a 2 way switch - which you should consider putting back. Let's have a look in the switch you use for the hall light.

Is there another switch somewhere with taped up wires as well?

The cartridge fuse equivalents were still being installed in the 90s.

If you want this done the conventional way, without bothering with a neutral you may never need, run a twin and earth from light or junction box to the first switch, and a 3 core and earth from the first switch to the second switch. If you think a neutral would come in handy at the first switch...

Late 80s, very early 90s, I would say.