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In the second picture of the last three pics, I can see what looks like an empty conduit, which may be useful. You say the 3 gang switch is on the other side? Can we have a look inside the 3 gang switch?

Wouldn't that make it annoyingly difficult for anyone who wants to work on the connections in the future?

If you can trace where the black and the blue at the lower switch actually go to, we may be able to help. At the lower switch, is there an earth wire tucked away? Or any wires cut off?

Can where the top and lefthand conduits actually go to, in case water is also getting in there?

Are you able to disconnect the grey cat5e cable that runs through the box at one end, so you can re-route it through your new, altered conduit?

Take a picture further back, so we can see the all of the flexible conduits. We can advise you how to relocate a new junction box so the conduits can possibly be moved, with minimal disruption. The end fittings for flexible conduit are NOT watertight, so need to be at the bottom, with a small...

Ideally you need both flexible conduits to enter the bottom of a new junction box.

I expect whoever was selling them just thought they were ordinary plugs, and wanted them gone. I didn't realise those plugs were still about - they've been around forever nearly. And yes, who the hell sits at home making fake MK toughplugs?

Capping is better than oval conduit on new builds - because it tends to be shallower than most oval conduit sizes, and so when fixing direct to block it means you can get a thicker covering of plaster over it so less chance of cracking.

PVC every time. Galvanised is harder to work with. For a start, the manufactured edges are often so sharp you can barely pick the stuff up. Then you've got to either nail through the sides, which is extra effort. Or if you don't want to nail through it, you have to nail just near to the sides...

Always a good idea to use capping or conduit. If a cable should get drilled through, you have a chance of pulling the cable through, to minimise damage. Secure capping or conduit with galvanised clout/plasterboard nails. Why people think banding is the answer, I do NOT know. Just more messing...

To save confusion, if you tell us the markings in the switch (they do vary) we can tell you straight away which connections to swap over.

Don't get them dipped, they come back in a right state.

If we are to assume the grey wire was never used, then follow Sunray's diagram.

Well you probably CAN as modern lamps on a lighting circuit are generally LED, at around just 3 watts each or so. Traditionally a lighting circuit was supposed to take 1200 watts (college days). And also people would stick a 500 watt floodlight on a lighting circuit. So, I would say a loose yes...

The cable with the brown, black, and grey - where does that go to? If you can photograph the connections of where that ends up, we should be able to give you a quick solution.

I'd say it is poor practice not to have the sheath entering the box. Also, I'd be inclined to leave the cores long enough to reach the furthest connector terminal - in case you make a mistake when connecting. WHERE'S THE EARTH WIRE?

Personally, if using PVC conduit,I wouldn't let the conduit enter the top of the outdoor socket. Because you risk water getting into the socket. I would elbow across, and then up, so the conduit enters the bottom of the outdoor socket. I would drill small drainage holes in appropriate places in...

You might see what B&Queue or Wickes have - they might do a 5m coil or something like that.

Just use 5 amp screw-down connector blocks.