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They slide on with grub screws, the screws dont hold adequately.... The spindles are smooth with no indents....

This sounds like a good plan, but do you mean I should let it go off fully in position? Or remove and let go off?

I bought a job lot of ceramic door knobs to keep costs down on renovation... You obv get what you pay for - the knobs constantly move on the spindles,l..... annoying! Whats the solution? Replace the spindles?

Thank you for enlightening me. In my case I suspect an insufficient earth is to blame. It appears they have used the vehicle body. I'm going to rewire back to leisure battery negative.....

As the title really! It's be cheaper to run t&e internally, then junction where it leaves house before swa to garage.... Is this good practice, or should I stump up and run the swa right back to CU? Thanks

Second that... Multitool is your best bet... I'd screw a batton on to give me a guide to cut along.....

Found em! It was so long ago I fitted the plate I'd forgetten where I put the bits! The chrome double threaded but in earlier photo must have come with the shower mixer, whereas the bit in this photo came with the plate... Just got to cut the tails to right length now... Gulp!

Anyone know what you call the compression fitting needed to connect these nuts to the protruding copper pipe? The exposed shower valve came with a couple of male plates that you screw back onto wall, but thinking I'd get fancy I used a shower PL8 instead.... Basically a male nut that the pipe...

Thanks. I'll try that in the first instance... It looks like there's no earth running back to the leisure battery, so assume they have just earthed through the body /chassis.... Looks like trouble ahead!

I recently bought a semi-converted-to-camper van and am trying to understand the wiring.... Something ain't right! Multimeter reading 12v ish at leisure battery, but only 1.5v at an internal light... Wiring all hidden behind lining.. Anyone know how best to proceed....?

I recently used a core drill to put a 50mm hole into the top of an old clay drain pipe... Was surprised it worked, but it did.....

I think I'm going to go with grey as going to do the niche in smaller white hexagons....

Crikey, hexagonal tiles are difficult! Zero room for error... (hasn't stopped me making some though!) What colour grout should I use?

Thanks... That's the kind of thing I was looking at... Maybe I should spend a bit more, though that wouldn't necessarily guarantee a better product...

Thanks both. The van pre dates a display screen if it's own so I need a full aftermarket set up. Great tip re the cover!

Any reccomendations for a reversing camera to fit a Mercedes Vito? Seems I've got the option of a number plate mounted one, or a high level brake light one....

I've got the tiles to work using a NHL mortar.... It was all about controlling the suction of both floor and tile. Here's what's working : Wet floor with masonary paintbrush, not too much... then paint floor with a lime slurry. Spread 2:1 building sand /nhl5 onto floor with notched trowel...

Not come across that one. Yes, the more I've read about NHL5, the more I think I'll prob do cement next time - still on the foamed glass though.....

Thanks... Yes, that's become apparent! Not good design.... I guess on alot of installations it wouldn't matter, but on mine it really does... It's a solid stone wall, then a cavity with internal insulated stud wall. I'd planned to put boiler in position, set pipework and flue, then remove...

I believe it is the yellow system - it's a second-hand boiler I got off a mate who has installed a heat pump.....