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How deep is the pulin? Have you considered leaving the pulin where it is but box it all in with a faux set of under-rafters. You'll need to use some of the depth anyway to get a ventilation gap and 100mm +50mm of insulation in there.

Bear in mind that a badly insulated loft conversion will be an oven in the summer. I'd put 50mm over the top if you're not struggling for head height.

I'd be screeding after installing the doors, then the screed will cover the back of the door sill etc. It depends what you've done with your levels and where/how you've positioned your slab and insulation though. Do you have cross section drawing of your floor buildup?

You see this is the hidden price of lockdown that Boris isn't considering. People with too much time on their hands coming up with crazy ideas. Personally, I'd want to set the top of the glass 20mm under the water so that I could do a cool walking-on-water trick for friends. Might be a bit...

Purely inconvenience, in my view. The faff of chasing so much brick out to install it, and at 1200mm width you'd want a way of supporting the brickwork above, versus a 440 width where you can probably do it without support. You might also take the viewpoint that if this element of the design...

Has he given you the calcs to pass to your building control? Somewhere it should talk about the end reactions of the beams, and somewhere in there there must be an assumption on the compressive strength of the brickwork.

That's going to be the future if they've managed to do it without reducing the capacity of the truck too much. How many cubes can they carry?

Agree with all of the above, plus there is nothing more back breaking and miserable than laying blocks in a trench below ground level.

...followed by... ... Is a common complaint on this site even without neighbours doing any work, so don't be too quick to point the finger at the chaps next door.

Thanks Bernard that's really helpful. The pole that currently supplies us is on our property boundary at the end of the drive, or perhaps 6 inches into the grass verge that separates our property from the pavement, so I'm hoping to avoid highways issues. In your experience did you terminate...

It sounds like a legal minefield too - if/when you ever sell your buyers conveyor will want to see that the access to sewage outflow is secure for their buyer, with associated documentation. How far away is the plant? Is it 'downhill'?

I've asked our local operator to change my overhead supply cable to underground. It's a tough process due to staff shortages. I don't need the meter to be moved, so I asked for a quote for them to trench across 6 metres of concrete covered drive so that the new cable would pop-up in the...

Most upvc suppliers will stock items like that. It's sometimes called 'utility board' e.g. https://www.eurocell.co.uk/soffit-board/flat-soffit-board-9mm/150mm-utility-board-in-black-ash-x-5m or plain upvc soffit board may suit too ...

As some of the previous comments , I'd be most worried about a) damp being introduced through non existent flashing etc, 2) noise from people talking at eaves height percolating into your top room. That could be really annoying if it's a bedroom.

Is it really that simple? Isn't it about shear strength at the end, versus overall deflection, and the notch is only going to affect the shear? What's the span on the rafters, ann20?

Around my way it's 90 per cube plus 50 delivery if you don't get above around 3 cubes. Plus vat. So I don't think you're far off.

Mmm there may be a degree of that, but someone's got to keep the economy going .

Yes it's this in essence. I'm starting to think I should be moving the saw rather than moving the piece. You seem to do a bit of both. The next roof is made of 6M length 175x50s and there a good 50 of them so I'll buy a new saw then chuck it back on ebay afterwards if its worth doing.

I'm currently shovelling 4 tons of hardcore into my floor slab. Stinks of tarmac. Presumably road planings or some such. Lovely smell.

Up until now I've been using a dewalt chop saw that has 50/60 degree bevel/mitre so there's nothing it can't do in terms of making an accurate compound cut. It's pretty back breaking though - having to move every rafter/joist to position, flipping around, cutting again etc. This autumn I'm...