First fix roof framing, which saw?

[garyo]

Up until now I've been using a dewalt chop saw that has 50/60 degree bevel/mitre so there's nothing it can't do in terms of making an accurate compound cut.

It's pretty back breaking though - having to move every rafter/joist to position, flipping around, cutting again etc. This autumn I'm doing a roof with two valleys and I'm wondering if I should get a battery circular saw instead so that I just run around the stack of wood putting the cuts on either end wherever the merchants dumped them. Is it realistic given the plunge depth needed at a 45 degree bevel?

Which model saw do you guys use? Do you use a simple circular saw for the easy straight cuts then something more fancy for the more demanding valley/rafters?

 

[^woody^]

Back breaking? You just want a new saw don't you.

It will need to be a big, heavy, awkward mofo to do those cuts. Watch that old back.

Couple of Jack saws for a tenner.

 

[noseall]

Back breaking?

Yes. The rafters are manoeuvred at waist height. You've obviously not had to cut a roof Woods. A decent size one is back breaking and knackering to cut.

Which model saw do you guys use?

I use a big DeWalt (mounted on a fold-away ally bench) and a corded Makita. Neither are particularly wieldy but both have ample power.

 

[^woody^]

A decent size one is back breaking and knackering to cut.

What? It's a plank of wood, and you just run the saw across it.

Wait until the OP starts laying the patio slabs, then he'll know what back breaking is.

 

[noseall]

What? It's a plank of wood, and you just run the saw across it

Ahh, you deffo have never cut a roof.

Wait until the OP starts laying the patio slabs, then he'll know what back breaking is.

I find it mush easier laying slabs than cutting rafters and I do loads of both.

As I said, its the height of the workpiece. The tiring bit (on your trunk muscles) is the constant shifting/positioning when lining up the blade with the lines. Each rafter can involve quite a few cuts too. The length of the timbers (swinging and switching) has a knackering effect, even though they weigh less than a more compact but heavier object.

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[garyo]

constant shifting/positioning when lining up the blade with the lines. Each rafter can involve quite a few cuts too. The length of the timbers (swinging and switching) has a knackering effect,

Yes it's this in essence. I'm starting to think I should be moving the saw rather than moving the piece. You seem to do a bit of both. The next roof is made of 6M length 175x50s and there a good 50 of them so I'll buy a new saw then chuck it back on ebay afterwards if its worth doing.

 

[garyo]

You just want a new saw don't you.

Mmm there may be a degree of that, but someone's got to keep the economy going .