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It's a two storey extension so PD rights are pretty limited.

Is he trying to say 'distance to the side boundary plus 1 is the maximum depth of the rear extension which would then be built on the direction of the rear boundary'? If so then wouldn't that just be a really convoluted 45 degree rulev that doesn't take in to account the position of neighbours...

Doesn't the person occupying the would-be bungalow still need to be connected to the agricultural activity in some way?

How will he sell these houses if they don't have planning permission? To what extent does it affect your amenity? Maybe it's an opportunity to settle with the developer so that you become compensated and he can progress with his sales.

Do you mean only in those situations where they've put a stop-bead up against the upvc frame, or also those situations where they've rendered directly up to a frame? I've just had my rear Parex'd and have a mixture of both.

I've had a few of these on my last loftie and presume it's my incompetence with regard to not sinking the screws enough, but I'm interested in whether the pros think it's a function of how wet the rafter timber was and how much shrinkage goes on as it all drys out?

I had a Parex one-coat last year. The guy putting it on also used a base coat with embedded mesh to stop it cracking etc... so I'm not really sure why they call it one-coat.

It could be both a and b if you want two extensions, as long as the resulting two extensions don't touch in any way, as then the combined extension will fail the side extension test.

I'll have a look at their website. I'll have a better look when I'm not on a phone but it seems okay on the face of it : The fire resistance and sound insulation performances are for imperforate partitions, walls and ceilings incorporating boards with all joints taped and filled, or...

Thanks. Is tape and joint as acceptable as skimming?

Hi I'm double boarding the ceiling that separates my internal garage from the bedroom above. As per the approved plans I'm double boarding in 12.5mm with staggered joints. How should I finish the edges where the boards meet the wall? In some cases I can get the boards tight up against the...

Yep I've never had an issue with my local authority BCOs. Five or six extensions, probably six inspections each. I'm lucky if they're on site for more than 2 minutes. Frequently less than 60 seconds. I take it as a compliment... In the sense that they can sniff a shonky job/site that needs real...

How should a first-fix be pressure tested when a system is complex with tails everywhere? Would a plumber put a temporary compression fix stop-end on every tail and then pressurise before plastering everything in?

I'm currently sizing the radiators for our new extension. They will be connected up to a two year old Grant Vortex. For the first room I looked at, a couple of online calculators say that I only need a 600w radiator (the room is a first floor bedroom, 4m by 4m, 1m2 window, insulated to current...

And I know this has been done to death on similar threads, but all the aggro with an unserviceable 5 or 10cm damp-fest gap

Buy some of this https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/timloc-eaves-vent-roll-out-rafter-tray-600mm-x-6m.html

Yep, the hinges always have to go on the opposite side to where you want them. It's not a nice way to enter a room.

Grant vortex.

I don't see how the householder is ever in a good position. Day rate: trader takes the p*ss. Job rate : lay-man householder is meant to check that corners aren't being cut (as is evidenced in half the posts on this forum)

Thanks. I'll give it some more thought. I suspect rebuilding both skins with a new cavity lintel might be the simplest approach, even though it's more brute-force and potentially less elegant.