I didn't watch the whole video as the audio was so poor, but either that 3C&E was part of an alteration for the borrowed neutral putting the downstairs hall light on the same circuit as the upstairs lights or the two circuits have not been separated. It would have only taken 5 minutes to test...
The red conductor on the looped supply only has basic insulation. It's a requirement for all accessibly conductors to be insulated and sheathed but the DNO tend to do as they like.
Arrgh why is the audio programme so low! -12dB??
I can't see why it wouldn't work other than the fault was with the upstairs switch which was not replaced. The wiring looks correct.
Low impedance measurements for these types of test are more accurate when a higher test current is involved. It's why loop impedance tests are typically performed at 10's of amps.
Freely touching the copper?
Why would you turn off all switches except the main switch?
I guess only the OP can confirm.
Potentially worrying that a consumer unit has been wired to a "13A supply" though. Although it might be perfectly safe, it's an odd configuration.
It used to be that a TN-C-S supply would not be provided from overhead lines as the CNE would typically be the bottom conductor and most likely to be damaged. Less of an issue with ABC though.
The picture is typical of an overhead looped supply, whereby the supply cable runs in the loft space...
Pedantic, but you can get an "electric shock", but the current is usually minimal and will not cause a hazard. The inter-winding capacitance creates a current path.
I disagree with that, although often not installed for the purpose of fire rating, plain Gyproc WallBoard has a 30 minute fire rating which should be more than sufficient to eliminate the need for any special fixings above a ceiling.
The consumer unit is not required to be sealed in any manner other than to satisfy the requirements of IP ratings. The enclosure is not designed to form a fire barrier or suppress a fire, it's simply there to not catch fire or melt.
Similarly, there is no requirement for metal. Simply...
Indeed, the cable doesn't need to carry the cranking current. The safest way is to leave the donor car running and allow it to charge the flat battery for several minutes. Stop the donor engine and crank the other. Disconnect leads.