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I'd go for something like this: https://amzn.to/3vEwKCw

You shouldn't need to be cranking too hard. I assume it was not cross threaded and the mating edges are relatively flat?

No, you would most likely need to replace the first outdoor socket with the FCU

You could take another spur from the socket on the ring if it can be safely terminated in the back of that socket. Alternatively fit a 13A FCU inside and run as many sockets as you like from the load side of the FCU

Fan driven is likely to be better since there is less latency when trying to heat the place, but many people find oil radiators better as (anecdotally) they don't dry out the air so much. Just make sure a thermostat is fitted.

Quick test on the LCR meter of the parallel capacitance: 100 Hz: 100 kHz:

Not the capacitance itself, but the apparent capacitance measured at the terminals. The model has inductive and resistive elements which give the variance with frequency.

Indeed, they oddly only give Cj (at 1 MHz). Cp which is the parallel capacitance is not given - I guess because at one test frequency it means very little in terms of spec point. I'll stick one on the impedance analyser The crucial point is 1N4001-4 is usually PN structure and 5-7 is PIN which...

First datasheet on google shows only with a test frequency of 1 MHz, but you get the idea.

Where you care about the parasitic capacitance. The capacitance is usually quite different for a 1N4001 than a 1N4007, so you'll find a it starts to pass more and more high frequency content with no rectifying action.

Being in Zone 2 doesn't require an IP65 rating anyway

Which trip is tripping? What are the markings on that device?

As mentioned, a Klik Flow or similar will work, or you can use an Ashley J501. Good luck with the upside-down plasterboard though :eek:

Correction ;) The drawing is incorrect. In this instance the switch is pointless as the diode is always forward biased. The original diagram was right for back EMF protection. Indeed, so with the diode in place, the back EMF will not exceed much over one volt.

Of course, because whenever I go in the loft I like to make a cup of tea.

Just to stop people taking a kettle into the loft for a brew. Also more usefully will hopefully prevent the alarm from accidentally being unplugged or switched off.

I would have assumed it would be twisted after the hook, but who knows.

Does it use a plug-in adaptor? It would be worth using an FCU rather than a 13A socket if possible, but if the adaptor is integrated with the plug then there's no option for this.

The joint should be mechanically sound before any solder is applied - that is when you tug at the two conductors, it should not separate.

That's down to improperly sized crimps, incorrect tool or poor quality materials - A solid core will behave no differently to a stranded cable if the crimp is the same size. In the process of crimping there should be no air gaps. If you're finding a stranded core is behaving differently to a...