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Thanks for all the help, much appreciated. I may as well pick up that set then as it's only light used at most. I didn't know that. Is it just the shape of the cutter that gives a cleaner cut?

Understood but which brand is a good value cheapish one?

I'm doing a few small shelves in solid wood (could be iroko, not entirely sure) and I want to round the edges and corners ever so slightly so figured on a 3/8 or even a 1/8" roundover bit. Is there a decent 'value' brand to look at? Not looking to spend loads as I'll not be using it a lot...

Well you have my sympathy, tradesmen like that are the pits

You paid?!! That's bloody awful work. I'd take plenty of pictures of "finished" work and the damaged caused and ask for the money back; you won't get it of course but you have the option of small claims. Do you have any flooring left over as you'll need some to make good.

It's all guesstimate until you get the quotes in!

It's an estimate, very rough, for cost per added m2. A 4*8m extension is 32m2 so 32*your chosen value. I use 2.5k per m2 which gives you £80k .

I'd wonder if anything is extracted through that pipe, it's crushed at both ends. Where does it go after that wall?

I'll be interested in any fix for this as it happens to one of mine too. I got two, one gives an occasional drip the othe is absolutely fine. I've put it down to water pressure for now. I also have some water knock to sort out

Walk away. It's not worth another thought

With my place the builder knew the BC guy, they had a chat walked through and around the house and it was done in less than 10 minutes.

I’d replace with the tiles matching the street and use retrospective pp in the very unlikely event it’s needed

Because councils and neighbours can be fussy awkward buggers and it helps head off any future challenges

Lots of ways of avoiding painting them. You can put the masking tape over and cut around with a razor blade, others take the door off completely and spray outside. One smart way I've seen but not tried is to loosen one or two hinges and paint that area if the door then tighten up and repeat with...

It's personal preference but I cannot stand a painted hinge. It's just wrong!

It shouldn't run on to your roof. Ask your neighbour to add a down pipe draining on to their own soakaway or similar. Looks like long term damage to your roof and wall (certainly excess wear and tear)

Check if you need a separate moisture barrier before the insulation too

Probably be less time with the CH on but you have to figure out how to fit the UFH first. Ours, not retrofitted, was block and beam floor, 100mm insulation (I think), piping for UFH then 75mm screed.

3k contribution sounds very low for all that kit and installation. Get everything in writing! You should be able to specify copper pipes etc but it will likely affect the contribution cost. Screed types vary. You can walk on them very quickly but to put a floor covering on you're looking at...

I bought one of these and it does the job https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-er2100-2100w-1-2-electric-router-220-240v/535FX?tc=VT9&ds_kid=92700048793290430&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=Cj0KCQiAt66eBhCnARIsAKf3ZNGu5mywPGSflMw4aqhJR0ZtN3bjYeqrVx1WNMU7BW7PAZFKf3tciIoaApg1EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds