Search results

You bolt the frame to the brick courses (regular bricks on top of engineering bricks). Poly blowing out is a common issue usually sorted with battens

:ROFLMAO:

Ask an architect for examples of their work. Out of curiosity why do you want them?

Have sorted for now, the motorised valve had stuck but after a poke it's fine for the time being. A nice simple fix that @Mottie suggested off the bat :)

It might annoy the builders as well. They'll have quoted in the dimensions provided and won't want to be adding a bit here and there which isn't defined in a plan.

Mine are showing already. Fingers crossed it's not knotweed!

You want the loo to go to an open gully? No unless you're french. If you mean connected underground to the shared waste pipe then yes.

In place of a slab I'd lay foundation and use engineering bricks on that to build your frame on. Then you can plant into the ground and gain growing height. Your choice of timber, cedar is traditional but pricey, I used treated 2x4 and painted in creocote. Think about the glazing before...

Hard to tell this early. Could be, could also be peony or a number of other plants

Nope. You'll create loads of moisture in the stack and all the nasties will start to leech through the brickwork into the room. Just cut through the external wall and repair the pebble dash

Yes disclose it. He won;t presumably be a blind man walking around when they come to inspect. It will at worst just mean bigger foundational works

It's a good concept but all sorts of bad in being implemented. I seriously doubt adding a delay will curb any costs

You might find the base isn't seated properly.

Why is it so frickin difficult to get builders to do extractor ducting properly?! Mine were similar. Get them back to replace full length of ducting and the wet insulation. Timbers will dry out and won't need extra treatment. Watch out for kinks, loops, constriction of the ducting and make sure...

CharlieDIWhyte (might have that spelt wrong) did a project exactly like this if you search it out on youtube.

All true but this is just stuck on the side rather than a part of the fluid under pressure. Location wise, well I could give a soliloquy on how many ballsups my plumbers and builders did. If I'm unsure of anything at all I don;t touch anything

How to check?

There's a reset button on the stat that I've tried but it seems to make no difference. Is there another way such as power cycling?

I've woken up to no hot water, CH is working fine and no error codes showing on the boiler. Having looked at the unvented cylinder I have noticed the stat has obviously been whacked out of place but when pushing it back on I'm still not getting any demand. Have tried the reset button but still...

Some keywords on the forum pick up a hyperlink automatically