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I had this issue when setting up my Texexcom alarm and almost lost the will to live trying to fix it, what fixed it for me was to completely power down the entire system for say 30 seconds then power it back up. Once everything has rebooted the app should work ok again.

Say's who exactly? A 35mm back box should be ample for a cooker circuit wired in 6mm T&E, I'd agree with 47mm if it was 10mm T&E.

@secureiam - Thanks for the reply and sorry for the delay in responding, I didn't receive an email to say there had been a reply to my thread. I've had a look into what you suggested but not too sure what you mean sorry, are you able to elaborate any further? All the log says is 'RF Jam...

@HenryGregory - I used a PSU like this: https://www.besafedirect.com/elmdene-1-amp-power-supply-12-volt-dc-mains-failure-monitoring-html.html https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/1626566-1a-12v-dc-boxed-power-supply-unit I would go for an Elmdene unit if the budget allows as they are very...

@HenryGregory - Yes you can wire the bell box to a mains supply. I contacted Texecom recently with the same question as i wanted to run the power for the bell box from a 13.8v alarm PSU with battery backup to save me the hassle of changing the batteries in the future, the bell box will be...

I think you've over complicated things, just run some surface trunking from the spur up to your alarm panel, all someone would have to do if they wanted to kill the power is pull the fuse out of the spur anyway, or pull the main fuse for the property if your electricity meter is external. Your...

Were the cables behind the blank plates made off as though they had been previously connected to sockets? I ask as if they were then perhaps the cable was damaged and has been disconnected and cut back at the source. As for where they could have been fed from, sockets nearby are a good bet...

Hi Guys, I've recently installed a wired Texecom Premier alarm with the Smartcom app, that's all working perfectly. Have now added an 8XP-W expander as I want to add detectors to some outbuildings and since that's been added I'm getting the occasional RF Jamming alert on my phone from the...

@JohnW2 Indeed we probably will have to fit them eventually, my personal opinion is they are a waste of money but i will indeed comply when the time comes.

I've got some snake oil if anyone's interested? ;)

@Jupiter01 - Yes power could have been supplied at any point in the chain, I did say 'if wired in the conventional way'. If you find one has three cables then you are probably on the right track.

No! That is a very bad idea as you could be back feeding from another circuit. The first detector in the line should be easy to identify if wired in the conventional way, it will have two incoming cables, one Three core & Earth and one Twin and Earth, that twin will be your incoming supply. All...

I've had the same problem as studentspark with the main switch terminals breaking, I was using a torque screwdriver on the correct setting. I'm also having weird issues with their new (now standard) mini RCBOs randomly tripping out for no reason, usually it happens when you plug something in...

@SimonH2 - Not sure what your budget is but I would recommend these: https://www.festive-lights.com/connectable-lights/festoonpro The festoons are connectable so you can run everything from one plug, it's not the cheapest type of system and I haven't used this particular product myself but I...

Have you got any external sockets or outbuildings that are also affected? My thought with the current weather is water has got into an external junction box or something like that.

I've used the BG one that rsgaz posted a link for, i got mine through TLC as a special order item. The socket can be moved up and down too depending on which way the wall-wart goes which is a neat idea.

Homebase sell a pack of 10 5w TCP brand GU10s for £10. They are my go-to GU10 at the moment and everyone I have fitted them for has given good feedback, they are dimmable too! Seems to be an in-store only price as cant find them on the website.

As already said those incoming main tails (far right) need re-terminating so there isn't any (or minimal) copper on show, they remain live even when the main switch is off so i wouldn't advise poking around in there. You also seem to have a 2.5mm T&E fed from a B32 MCB (4th MCB from the left)...

Looks like someone has intentionally by-passed it or at least disconnected it, what does the brown core of the grey cable connect to? I suspect that would have originally connected to No 1 with your switch inside only then acting as an override, when the switch is in the off position the...

If you have a permanent live available at the downlight then use one of these to connect the new light: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QUR303.html and one of these as the switch which can be installed alongside your existing light switch...