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A few years ago I had a real nightmare with some black oilbased Crown satinwood which refused to dry after 48 hours (over a weekend) even after being applied exactly as instructed. It was a particular problem as it was on staircases in a gym where lots of people with disablilities needed to...

There is every chance that you could, if you were determined to do so. We can't stop you. But the subsequent three layers of paint would be unlikely to adhere properly, it would look a mess and you would have wasted a lot of time, energy and money. If what you are proposing would have...

I would just sand it with coarse grit to remove any loose flakes of rust, then brush paint with Hammerite direct-to rust gloss/satin. Spraying spindles is very wasteful (and can be messy).

Don't use masking tape at all. Just cut in carefully with not too much paint on the brush.

Is the bed you are getting bare, untreated wood, or what?

I would wash off as much of the emulsion as possible with very hot water, fairy liquid and a scrubbing brush. (Actually, I wouldn't. I'd get HER to do it). Then, when dry, I would sand the doors down and apply a coat of Zinsser Bin (red tin) before proceeding to paint them properly with water...

What should you do? Forbid your girlfriend from doing any decorating ever again. She is clearly a liability.

Also..if it is very rough, it will benefit from a very thorough sanding before painting. Plus, unless the wood can be made smooth to the touch, you are better to use oilbased eggshell than high gloss (gloss is not very forgiving on rough surfaces and highlights every flaw).

Or even illuminating them :)

By 'the standard gloss' do we assume you mean oil-based gloss? Water based gloss is just as tough as oil based if you leave it long enough to cure before touching it/putting things on it. People tends to assume that once it's dry to the touch, it's 'good to go' That is not the case. Leave it...

Just paint it. Stained doors are so 80s.

I agree, three weeks is unreasonable.

Yes, water based will stay white. Oil based will yellow indoors - if the tin warns against this, you may not have much of a leg to stand on as regards refunds, etc. The yellowing is an inevitable (and pretty much unsortable) result of the reformulation of oil based paints in 2010 to reduce their...

I know another decorator who has used it extensively in his own house and is very impressed with it. It's certainly improved the energy efficency of his very old stone cottage (no cavity walls). I'll ask him if he has any tips for hanging it.

Paint the wall to the left of the staircase white, then change the colour in the corner to the left of the poster? It would look odd if you did it half way up the stairs.

Agree totally with dcdec! :)

Impossible to say without seeing the room and the quality of your preparation. Sometimes when customers hope to save money by stripping paper themselves and providing the materials, it backfires and ends up costing them more. You don't mention what exactly you want doing in terms of...

I would be surprised if it adhered properly to old oil-based, without an undercoat. If you are happy with it, fine. But you may be disappointed later if you have tried to cut corners.

If you redo the grout I suggest you use ready-mixed brilliant white anti-mould stuff. Various people make it including Evostik I think.

It should not show, if you use the same paint as before and if you abrade the affected area lightly before touching up. With oilbased paint it would show, because of the rapid discolouration of oil based trim paints over even a few weeks or months.