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If you want some brown fabric covered flex let me know. I have a drum which I had for another job, and mine will be cheaper than those other sites! ;)

What do you think??

If the technical spec says accurate to +/- 2 degrees then I don't think you can expect much better to be honest, can you?

I have looked in the regs but can't see any cables less than 16mm for Aluminium. Does anyone know where I can find the CCC for 10mm Aluminium T+E clipped direct? Thanks.

Ususally I'd say word of mouth from someone you trust is the best way to find a good tradesman, but if you don;t know anyone up there then this may be tricky? Look at http://www.electricalsafetyregister.com/ to find a local registered electrician. Dont be afraid to ask for references or pictures...

Anyone know where to get a touch dimmer module to go in a table lamp as a replacement from a reputable uk supplier? Lots on ebay/amazon etc but from China and obviously quality or CE marking etc could be suspect.

You won't have to pay as it belongs to the DNO. It will be their decision as to whether it is safe or not and if they are going to do anything about it. Personally I'd say if it's under Tarmac and not in an area to be dug (eg not under a garden or lawn) then I'd say although not strictly...

I also have the armeg box sinker. It is expensive but does quite a good job of making a nice tidy hole providing the wall isn't too hard. Not tried it on brick but block is fine.

I got one of these back along, very good bit of kit for getting behind skirting or coving. http://www.screwfix.com/p/armeg-sds-plus-skirting-board-chisel-20mm/15097

Down lights have a purpose for some lighting scenarios, and some peoples taste. BAS and some others here seem to think there should be a blanket ban to their use altogether. I agree at 50W each the old halogen ones were rediculous when you could easily have 500W lighting a room but the led...

God, your sounding more and more like BAS every day. One BAS is enough, we don't need another.

I can remember being told and seeing diagrams at college that showed a zone 2 around the sink in a semi circular shape. Was it in the 16th ed? I don't have a regs book to hand.

If it was the old one at fault causing the RCD to trip, it may have only been an element which was knackered at the cost of about £15.

Never seen one with a toothbrush graphic, does it really matter? Also, are you aware this work is notifiable, how are you going to make sure you comply with part p of the building regs? :sneaky:

It could be within the CU but I expect more likely the two circuits have been linked together somewhere else. Either way certainly needs attention!

Your right, it's a bodge. You need an electrician to sort it out properly..

Cheers Bernard. It is a new build so no dust will be present during the wiring of the plant. So if you went with IP6X throughout, then that is all that would be required for switchgear etc? The control cabinet will be located in a clean area so this is not an issue. I have heard of Atex too, but...

I am currently tendering for work at a milling plant, which is under 'category 22' for dust and the risk of explosion. As far as I can see by looking online this means electrical switchgear and luminaries are to be IP5X or better, or is there more to it than this? Anyone have experience in this...

Sometimes I think BAS is a bit OTT when telling people to get an electrician, however in this particular case I totally agree with him! (And John)..

No it's bullsh**! Unless your toilet also contains a bath or shower?