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3000w is a lot of IT kit.... The rack full of kit in the office is pulling <1500w Mining farm? :LOL:

how many amps does your heater draw? What circuit supplies the existing outdoor lighting and what protective device covers the lighting? How large is the existing supply cable? It would be my guess, that any heater thats going to do anything worthwhile outside on a patio, will use enough power...

i did 10mm to my workshop in the old house, and bought 16 for the new place (though it will be running an EV charger in the new place as well) The cable cost difference is usually fairly small, especially when taken into context of the whole job, including potentially digging up the garden etc...

I guess the other point here... is the cost of a new board is pretty small. Most of the cost is labour on a board swap, and your paying that for moving it all anyway, so why not just fit a nice new compliant up-to-date board in the process? My interpretation lies along the lines of Johns. If...

seems a bit... naff to me? Often in E7, the second board would have its own feed from the meter, which switches on when the system is "off peak". If thats the case, it shouldnt have been fed from the main CU at all? If theres some alternative switching arrangement (eg timers on the heaters...

When i did the summerhouse in the old place i ran 10mm SWA from a 40A switchfuse. Overkill, but it means no future worries about capacity. I used it as a workshop so wanted plenty of power for compressor/welder etc. No RCD on the armour for me, saves a possible trip in the garage tripping the...

Ofcourse, theres always cowboys. But hes asking on here for advice, and if hes given best practice for burial and does that, then whats the issue? Is there though? How do you know any of those existing circuits were installed correctly, and werent lashed up by some clown? I'm no electrician...

I would just keep it on the lighting circuit if its there already. The DP isolator means if for any reason water gets into them and causes nuisance tripping, you can isolate off the whole outdoor branch and keep your indoor lights working.

NYY-J might work better, its solid core so should sit a bit nicer, whereas flex might droop a bit between clips. But otoh its probably bulkier and doesnt come in smaller sizes. Personally i wouldnt use conduit. At my brothers recently we used some outdoor rated black flex, 3138P i think, which...

Sure, but you cant really botch up burying an cable, and some quick photos etc should be enough to show its installed sensibly. If he feels really strongly, note on the paperwork that the cable was pre-existing. Sparks must do a huge proportion of work where they cannot possibly ensure cables...

If its the latter, they're <insertswearword> and can GTFO. If its the former, then well thats upto them, but given appropriate measures are taken, such as those mentioned with photos and whatnot, then i think they're being a bit unreasonable. Ofcourse, there are plenty other sparks out there who...

Why, what exactly is wrong with H07?

I would just put the cable in, personally. Everyone on here loves banging on about getting the spark to specify things like this, but has anyone actually met a spark, who when shown two ends of an pre-installed SWA cable, has refused to use it because he didnt see how it was buried? 6mm is fine...

i've usually got a box of old 12v power bricks floating around from random old bits of kit... do most people not have similar?

i would start with a simple test. Join Neutral and earth in the plug and try it out. Clearly, dont leave the link there and dont use it like that on the actual mains supply (though if its RCD protected you'll trip the RCD anyway) If the boiler runs happily like that, then you can see about...

yeah i meant simply that the service head bit needs done by the DNO, and the meter bit needs done by the supplier. The isolator is in effect customer responsibility, but often the meter guys will do it. Theres some crossover though. I had a new supply run in from the street and asked the DNO to...

Its sometimes handy though. Some charge point installers tend to split the tails and fit a seperate mini-CU for the charger. I guess it keeps them well away from whatever horrors lie in many peoples consumer units. Its also why they'll request an isolator, so they can shut it off and do the...

You need to call the DNO and get them to check the fuse rating. They are also the ones that will check the earth. They'll often send someone out pretty quick (same day even) especially if you mention the earth. Just tell them you believe your service head is in poor condition, the earthing is...

Are you using the timeswitch / economy7 setup? My first call would be to the DNO to see if they'd replace the service head with something a bit more modern and sort out that really shonky earth wire. With that done, removing the time switch and fitting a smart meter might tidy things up...

I would use a proper contactor from a trusted brand, and leave the chinesium to switching the contactor supply. Infact, this is exactly what i've done with my EV charger. A Sonoff device switches the supply to the controller in the charge unit (which controls the main contactor), but never...