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No, if the radiator valves are turned off, with or without a radiator connected, there'll be no flow through the pipes or the radiator, so the connecting pipes will NOT get hot. How could they, when there is no flow through them?

I'm not clear on two items: Do you have to have the bath at overflow level before you notice the leak? How do you notice the leak if you can't access the base of the bath?

Good to hear that you've fixed the issue. But yes, modern dual flush cable or air pressure operated flushing systems are quite complex, and prone to leakage into the toilet which can then go unnoticed for a long time. I assume these systems replaced the older, very dependable, siphon flush...

Normally the cistern water level is well above the "well" - at the mark on the cistern wall somewhere or, failing that, about 1" below the overflow level. The well has no significance with regard to the water level.

Yes, you don't want to spend more money on gas than you need to, but worrying about more CO2 being emitted is pointless. Britain as a whole contributes less than 1% of global CO2 emissions, so the emissions from ALL gas boilers in Britain are trivial and will have NO effect at all on the world's...

I guess it might be if you can obtain just a new microswitch and are handy with a soldering iron. But why bother? The microswitch and motor assembly is pretty cheaply available and requires just 2 screws to be undone and done up again to swap it for the old one - with of course remaking the...

Even if the motorised valve is opening OK, it can still fail to trigger the microswitch which means the boiler and pump won't run. You can get replacement valve heads, with motor and microswitch, that can be fitted without disturbing the plumbing and are quite cheap. I always have one of these...

There is an earth connection showing in this picture. It needs to be connected to the earth wire in the feed cable, and to the terminal normally provided in the back box. The faceplate/cover will be earthed by contact with the metal frame of the socket

Modern electric shavers with batteries have made shaver sockets pretty much redundant because the shavers do not operate when they are plugged in to be charged. I think this is because almost all shavers are now marketed as being operable wet, so they are now not allowed to be plugged in when...

Well I suppose it's nice but, personally, I've never had any problem with manually adjusting a thermostat! As for "smart" it's just a label to imply something is better, when often it isn't - like smart electricity meters

Making the operation of your heating dependent on a good mobile phone connection seems to me to be very unwise and is certainly not "smart"!

A rather unnecessary response if I may say so, but I'll let it pass!

Since the OP only recently turned the handle to close the stopcock it cannot be seized closed or even seriously stuck. With the handle broken, the use of an adjustable spanner or a Mole wrench to open the stopcock is such an obvious action I can't understand why the OP needed this forum to tell...

If you buy a new stockcock it'll have a handle like the old one which you can remove from the new and fit to the old. But as has been said an adjustable spanner clamped tightly onto the flats will move it as it can't be too tight, given you closed it before your tap job

Yes always use best quality isolation valves. In a new house I occupied a while back, the builder had clearly fitted to lowest quality isolation valves he could find. After a couple of years, I had reason to use one of them to isolate the cold water tap to change the cartidge. It was a bit...

You just have to experiment with different numbers of turns of Loctite 55 or PTFE tape until the valve is correctly orientated when it is fully tight. This is a bit tedious but is pretty standard practice.

What's the question? As you say, you connect the flow side of the pipework to the radiator connection marked "inlet". Or are the inlet and outlet labels on your radiator missing?

As sketched, the radiators will stop both doors opening fully, but I guess you could tolerate that, as long as you fit some sort of stops to prevent the doors crashing into the radiators.

Surely you must have a shower, even if you don't have a bath. So you'll need HW for that as well as the kitchen sink. Or do you just go unwashed?!

Has the builder finished the work? If so, he has neglected to cover the edge of the tiles. This could be done with mortar, but better would be a purpose designed edging strip - which would also cover quite a bit of the rubber/lead that you want to disguise. It also looks like there are some...