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Hi, Below are a couple of pictures of the consumer unit in my house (located in garage), and I am trying to decide whether to have it changed. The main reason for doing so at the moment, is that the cooker circuit does not seem to be under RCD, and I would prefer to have everything put under...

Thanks. Just to check my understanding, do you mean like this?

Thanks. Will do. I read somewhere else that a P trap would be better than an S trap, due to the S trap being considered unvented. I thought that an S was a good idea as it lends itself to the vertical drop down to the tee. Is an S ok or would it be better to have a P trap with a longer initial...

Thanks for all of the previous advice. It turns out that I need to move the sink further than originally anticipated, so I plan to drill a new 52mm hole and install a 40mm pipe. I am also planning to install a sink S trap (in line with the new hole) and a separate appliance trap (such as the...

Thanks to both of you. Just to clarify my original rambling question, I really just wanted to check that I could use that rather than something like this sounds like I can and, as EFL points out, it simply has Dishwasher written on it :) As the "Dishwasher" one seems designed to...

Hi, I need to install a dishwasher in a location next to a sink, where there is currently no power. I had intended to spur off from the existing ring main and add an isolator somewhere above the kitchen worktop, but with no surface cabling above the worktop. I had originally intended to put a...

Thanks for all of the advice. If I am going to re-pipe everything, is it better to install a separate appliance trap, just something like this Would that give a better result than one of the combined appliance/sink traps?

Thanks. Would that include replacing the metal exit pipe, or is there a way to retain that? Can I just cut the metal pipe shorter and then two PVC elbows and a straight bit of PVC?

Hi, I need to replace a kitchen sink. The new sink needs to be re-sited slightly (so that the drain is about 100mm to the left). I also need to add a new fitting to accept a dishwasher, so had planned to use something like this. I'm just wondering what is the easiest way to work around the...

Thanks. Yes I removed the sleeving as I am dismantling the box. I knocked out the wrong hole the first time, so only put a grommet on the ones I was going to use.

Thank you. It is entirely possible that the terminal screw was in contact with the case, as the face plate was pulled forward slightly and tilted. Certainly the blackening is around the terminal screw and the blackening on the case is directly below where the screw would have been (please see...

Hi. The cable is 6mm. I don't believe that there was any problem with the wiring itself, just that I stupidly energised it with the terminal screws very near the back box, rather than properly fixed. I'll post a picture when I redo. The only think I couldn't manage was to bend the earth wire so...

35 :( Does the cooker outlet also need a 47mm box? I can switch out the current back box tomorrow, and I haven't done the outlet yet.

Hi, I am in the process of wiring up a cooker switch and outlet. After I wired the supply side to the socket (including earthing the back box) I activated the circuit at the CU, but there was a bang and flash and the fuse tripped. Upon inspection there was blackening on the area around the...

Hi. Yes it's stranded. Thanks.

Hi, I have bought some of these Wago connectors to connect 6mm cables in a junction box on a cooker circuit. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/non-fused-terminal-blocks/1750358 I am getting a good connection in most cases but a couple of stranded wires just do not fit very well, and have come...

At the moment the cooker circuit runs from the CU up into the ceiling, where it connects to something like this: A cable runs from this down to the kitchen and then connect to one of these Which then goes to a cooker connection unit. The reason that I can't easily use a single connection...

This is excellent news. The oven is rated at 4.9kW and the hob 7.4kW, so I will just add the hob to the same circuit. The existing cooker switch has a 13A socket included. Presumably that socket can still be used, because even with, say, a 3kW kettle (which is the most power hungry appliance...

Hi, I have a Wylex NHRS6604 board which has a dedicated 32A cooker circuit, with a 20A double oven running on it. I want to have an induction hob installed, which is 32A (7.4Kw). There are two circuits for the sockets in the house, which are both 32A. There are two unused slots on the board...

Thanks for all of this. I now have a new problem. I did proceed to buy an H Class vac which arrived today. When I opened it up to look inside, I found a bunch of scratches on the outside of the interceptor, along with a coating of fine black dust. I contacted the manufacturer, who said that...