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Here is a picture of the other side, they both look the same to me? va by ort67 posted 16 Jan 2018 at 3:04 PM

Cheers, I forgot to mention that both valves on the radiator are seized so I bought that to replace both sides. There are lock shields on both sides of every radiator in my flat, no TRVs at present.

ok thanks, what type of valve do you think I should buy?

So do you think that one I bought is the wrong size? It says it's 15mm x 1/2'', should I be looking for a 1/2'' x 1/2''? I just went and measured it I think it's 1 inch by 15mm.

Hi, I need to replace a seized radiator valve, but I'm not sure what valve to use if someone can point me in the right direction? I bought the valve listed below to replace it: https://www.screwfix.com/p/white-chrome-angled-trv-with-lockshield-15mm-x/31811 But when I compare the two, the side...

When I opened the valves I didn't notice a change in pressure, does that still indicate it's being lost within the boiler?

I checked it this morning and it has dropped to 1 bar with the isolation valves closed, so that must mean its being lost internally? What do you think the next step would be, get a plumber in?

Thanks, that's it topped up to 1.5 bar and the valves shut, we'll see what happens now.

Nice thanks for the advice. It's a Vokera Excell 80sp I have, in the manual there are the Central heating flow valve and Central heating return valves, is it just these the two I should close when it's up at 1.5 bar when cold and isolated?

I can't remember exactly but I think it is usually somewhere between 1-1.5 maybe 1.2 or 1.3 bar. This morning I turned off the boiler and filled it up cold to 1 bar then it dropped to 0.6 bar, it's been steady on that for the last couple of hours.

Hi, I have a Vokera combi boiler in a flat with about 7 radiators, but it is loosing pressure if anyone can advise me on the best course of action. This morning I topped it up to 1 bar but now 12 hours later it is at 0.6 bar. My down stairs neighbours haven't complained about any leaks, I'm...

Whats rough about it? I could build copper piping around and secure it to the wall, but part of me thinks whats the point, when a flex hose will do the same thing for a lot less time and effort.

Do you reckon something like this might do the job? http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-tap-connector-15mm-x-x-900mm/2373g

Good evening, I'm looking for some advice regarding fitting a electric shower to a stand alone shower cubicle. Where the electric shower will be positioned is approx 0.5m from where the water supply exits the wall, where my old shower was. To get the water supply to reach the shower I will...

Yes that one looks good, I'm think of going for that one. What do you think of it? There is also the Kubex Kingston All-In-One Sealed Shower Cubicle, but its a bit more money, I'm verging on going for the Kindeo Consort...

Yes its a bit of a shame really, think that the Philips Master LEDs have drivers built in that make them compatible with most lights, but at £8 per piece its not really a gamble I can be bothered with.

Here's a picture of the current situation. IMG_20170210_135547284 by ort67 posted 10 Feb 2017 at 2:46 PM

Between tile and wall there is about a 1.5cm gap. I was attempting to remove one cracked tile, which I was going to replace, and under cut the rest at a level of 21.5cm, when I pulled off the tile chucks of plaster came off. I tried to do it gently using an oscillating multitool, but there were...

In the end I decided to scrap the dimmer switch and just get a regular non-dimming switch. Looked into it and it was only going to get far too expensive. I'd probably need to buy expensive dimmable LED bulbs that have the drivers built into them, or fit one into the light, started getting...

Thanks for explaining, but why is that a problem? What does it do? It can't control the current feed, what does that mean?