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I would have thought that could be solved using a plume management kit as in pic 5, you'll need a gas bod to install it .

It's a universal backplate, any other will fit.

Others will disagree, but in that situation, I would fit new olive, gently tighten nut in order to compress olive, then wrap 3-4 wraps of PTFE around new olive and refit valve.

I once came upon one with that problem, previous idiot had got flame sense cable mixed with ignition cable

Could possibly be intermittent shower issue, dodgy thermostat maybe.

Please bear in mind BTW toilets are a pain to maintain because invariably they have to come out to remove cistern for simple repairs.

Don't forget the squirrells

Ferroli= skip

Possibly the fan on its way out, you'll need a gas bod to take a look.

Back to wall toilets should me made illegal. Access for a very simple repair can become a nightmare.

Copper olives are available from plumber's merchants in imperial sizes.

I wouldn't worry about it, sounds like there's a little gremlin in there.

Latest Logics do not have/require safety mod.

I think you are worrying too much, if it stays at around 1 bar, then leave it alone, if you had a leak, it would soon drop to zero.

Close both rad valves, open bleedscrew on rad to check valves have fully closed. Undo one end (hold valve while undoing nut so it doesn't turn), cap rad tail with 1/2" plug, repeat other end. You'll need an old towel under joints to catch drips. No need to drain boiler or system.

Might be worth asking someone else to look at it, sometimes it's as simple as the condi trap leaking, they're prone to cracking. The other favourite is the flow switch assy. If the hex is leaking, then it's scrap.

I think most pros on here will tell you to change the boiler, they're not v popular with engineers, you've been lucky to get 13yrs out of it. There's an estate in my village which was built around 13yrs ago, all fitted with those boilers, I've changed 6 of them over the last year or two.

This seems a lot of fuss for something very simple. Close both valves, open vent to check they are both shut. As said, hold valve with stilsons and undo nut, gently pull pipe away and substitute valve for 1/2BSP stop end. Move to other side and repeat. The water will only exit rad as fast as air...

I can't think of how that can be done unless you have a fairly recent Logic, in which case there's a "vent system" function in the menu.

No