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No. 5t over 60sqm will only give about 50mm depth

You ideally want 75-100mm of sub base so dig out to the right depth and put down your 5t and compact it. You can then at a later date add the final sub base needed to take it up to 100mm at the time you pave it

Remove the sand and replace it compacted type 1. Mortar straight onto the type 1. Lay on between 25-50mm, I use about 40mm. With sandstone there is no tea bonding problems so I would say just add sbr to your mix instead, about 100ml per bag of cement. Don't lay bone dry flags on wet cement...

Spray it, leave for a week then use a brushcutter to slice off the majority of the growth. then pile up the waste and burn it. Then scrape off the topsoil and pile it up. Use a woody weedkiller like sbk and a normal glyphosate together as glyph will not kill brambles and if you leave them in...

Its no problem at all. You should compact it as soon after laying as possible but once compacted it can sit there for as long as you like with no issue. 5t over 60sq.m is very little.

No, you should use hardcore. You could mix a bit of sand in if you need rid but not much. You absolutely should avoid a solid layer of sand.

You really need a wacker for it.

The weed sheet is a total waste, no weed will grow through 4" of compacted hardcore and sand and cement bedding. The only reason to use a membrane under paving is a geotextile for ground stabilisation or as a seperation membrane between a heavy/ wet clay sub grade and hardcore

Sleepers is probably cheapest and very easy to diy but have a limited lifespan. Gabions can be good but you need very good ac ess as the material needed to fill them is significant. Other options are dry stack mortarless walls, or full normal. masonary

They will probably have been using something different such as an enhanced product like hammer or nomix dual. These type of products can give visible results in as little as 12 hours and are used by councils etc for various reasons. They are much more expensive and only available in large...

Use the dose on the packaging. Making it more concentrated does not make it more effective, its a waste of money and bad for the environment.

Then your laughing, you can get a dumper and simply get him to lift the bags off into that and you run them round and tip and then come back for the next. Or get the bags set on individual pallets and then rent a small tele-handler

Naughty naughty stacking your flags like that. What would hse say. The difference between good pavers and bad is often just some forethought as to layout like you would when tiling. So many people come a cropper when laying to a fixed edge. Good to see nice neat work

Yew but how wide is the access?

Use nematodes, they are the most effective and completely safe for bees and any other type of life.

As john says any weedkiller should be effective if applied properly. Many people expect spraying weeds once to keep the area clear for the whole year. Weeds seeds blow in the wind, dropped by birds etc. Areas like gravel will need Sprayed every 4-8 weeks to stay clear.

You must remove the membrane, it can be hard work but its essential. The main issue is access width, there are plenty of things that will move the bags but they will not go through an opening smaller than about 4 ft minimum. There is a tracked mini dumper balloo have but it cant tip a ton bag as...

Its most likely vine weevil if this is in a pot.

If you intend to pave the area then you'll need to remove roots, stumps and all. The easiest way is to drag it out with a mini digger, the hard way is trim it back and dig them out. spreading shrubs like this tend to be easy enough. Large woody shrubs and trees are more difficult.

Polysulphide mastic sealant. Usually the joint is filled with compressible board at the time of building and finished with a deep bead of this.