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Thank you :-)

So it's significantly more expensive to do a full bed of drywall adhesive, you can get the plasterboard more level with dabs and it will adhere better and the air behind helps with thermal efficiency.... So definitely a better method then!!! Thank you so much for explaining - I appreciate it!!!! :-)

Lostinthelight* - sorry!

Thank you, lost in the light :-) No give is good when it comes to plasterboard, isn't it? Won't crack the plaster skim?

I understand that it is now good practice to dot and dab drywall adhesive in ribbons with a continuous line around the perimeter- but how come it's not commonplace to just stick the whole board on using a full bed of drywall adhesive? It's quicker to throw on and smooth out the adhesive rather...

It's not pretty but it is sealed!

...No leaks at all. My concern is that I'll somehow cause a damp problem with sticking the tape to the frame and dpc (because I don't know what I don't know). The draft coming in around the window was quite noticeable so stuck extra DPC in where there were gaps, securing it to the existing...

Hiya, thank you for your quick response!! Trying to avoid foam because I'm neurotic and don't like the fact it suggests on the label that it's a possible cancer risk

Thank you so much for reading this - please help! The DPC around my bathroom window is shoddy and there's a big gap between the metal lintel and the aerated block. I'm planning to stick Gorrila waterproof patch and seal tape to the window frame and dpc on the sides of the frame and the bottom...

I'm obviously going to finish cleaning the frame and dpc with Wonder Wipes and get all the silicone off first :-)

Thank you so much for reading this - please help! The DPC around my bathroom window is shoddy and there's a big gap between the metal lintel and the aerated block. I'm planning to stick Gorrila waterproof patch and seal tape to the window frame and dpc on the sides of the frame and the bottom...

You are right!! *Hisses and crawls back into cave*

This is a good article about cracks: https://abdrylining.com/cracks-in-walls/#:~:text=It%20may%20come%20as%20a,%2C%20in%20some%20places%2C%20crack. External walls are often dot and dabbed with plasterboard then plastered so could have been plasterboard or you could have had a wooden frame under...

I tried to start a collection of rings once but this mean guy stole my most precious ring and threw it into a volcano - put me off, honestly. Now I collect fish.

Yeah, I'd definitely protect your cabinets yourself rather than leave it to the plasterer - you'll care more, probably, and do a better job of looking after your cabinets. You could buy a shower curtain to waterproof the area as they're cheaper, easier and lighter than a tarp to handle. I'd...

What's under the plaster?

What's under the gap? Is it a hole or blocks or wood, or something?

If you've put in a fantastic fan and vents and things, are you sure it's definitely condensation and not something else? Or could the water vapour be coming from elsewhere in your home and settling above your bathroom? Ie if that spot is the coldest bit of your loft?

Plus doing the floor is presumably marginally more complex than dot and dabbing and if the floor ends up needing to go up or down a bit from where it was expected to be, it'll be easier to then work the plasterboard around your floor rather than the other way around.

I'd do it after as then the people doing the floors won't accidentally take a chunk out of your newly fitted plasterboard. The plasterboard won't, I presume, be sitting directly on the floor anyway - it's usual to leave a gap between the plasterboard and the floor and cover that gap with skirting.