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That stuff is only really temporary. Get a good grout cleaner from LTP or Fila for the floor.

Seal the grout with Fila Grout Protector. Stops the grout drinking up floor gunk.

Skim weakens the wall dramatically. Just tank the raw pb.

Rough up the surface first and then continue as planned :)

Not had a chance for a proper in depth read but try and get a geared motor if possible. One job and my basic electric packed up (bad handling on my part) which I'm pretty sure a geared motor would of dealt with.

Yes actually. A mishap (or oversight due to tiredness) meant I had to grind down a fair whack of adhesive. I was trying to take it up with a scraped but it sucked ass. Talking 45 minutes for maybe 2 tiles, usually one. BUT if you get your hands on a carbide rasp attachment.... took down the rest...

Acrylic Primer (NOT PVA!!) would be ideal. Aside from that, make the wall good and then you should be okay to tile once primed depending on how well you've trimmed it up :)

And, what does the manufacturer recommend? Firstly though, you need to make the substrate good for tiling. A minimum of 18mm Ply or preferably 6mm Hardiebacker board if it's floorboards.

We sell something similar. You are intended to grout them. Most cheap nasty grouts like Mapei, Unibond etc will be too gritty for them to comfortably get into the smaller joins (Mapei do make a high spec one but I've forgotten it's name) but you would want something like Micromax2 or something...

Hardiebacker is your best bet. 9MM ply IS NOT suitable for tiling whether you screw it down on 22mm chipboard or 222mm chip. Your substrate is as strong as the layer it's stuck to. Yes, Hardie will be overkill but do you want to chance it if your going down the natural stone route?

Topps Tiles retail it (£17.99 for 2.5kg) but the store may have split bags out the back (be nice and it works wonders :) ) or you can pick it up online. Be careful online however as some places want extortionate rates for shipping!

Rip it out and start again. It will shed water till your downstairs becomes a water feature. Hope you didn't pay him for that garbage. You will also have 0 warranty now from suppliers as if anything ever goes wrong they will blame the fitter who will of long ridden his horse off into the sunset...

Oh dear... right. You will want a flexible, WHITE, powder based adhesive. You should never dot and dab (blobbing it) as it's honestly, a **** method for cowboys who don't know what they are doing. Always spread it. You want at least 90% coverage on the back of the tile. Have no idea why people...

Short answer, no. If you can, get hold of 6mm Hardiebacker board and cut the pieces to size. Screw them down and then tile. Tiling straight to timber will crack.

Not had my morning coffee, but I'm 99% sure that leaving a gap as such will give you more problems in the long run. And no, tile adhesive won't fill the gap in the manner you want. Most tile adhesives aren't suitable for more than 6 - 8mm (exception being PTB or Pourable One from BAL but that's...

JC has the advice side of this well in hand but if the supplier/manufacturer of a product says do something a certain way, you can be sure that if you don't do it then they will wriggle out of any complaint if something ever goes wrong.

Get a good silicone if you are going to do your beading. I've used Mapesil and BAL in the past and have to say, BAL was expensive but still had brilliant white silicone after 6 months heavy duty around the bath with a newborn (fitted shower shelf angled backward caused water to come through the...

Too much water in the mix or washed out the grout joint when cleaning.

Emphasis on the TILER side of things. Most people I come across who've had floors onto floorboards have been the victim of another trade trying their hand at the specialist trade of tiling. Way more to it than "chuck some 6mm ply (wrong) down and then i'll tile it". In regards to your problem...

Well it's not been dot & dabbed so that's a good start. The concrete doesn't look overly level and as your tiler is using leveling clips to give you a good finish, it may be a side effect of that. I would personally talk to your tiler regarding the hollow sounds but as far as I can personally...