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Those bags are 25kg each so 10 bags would be 250kg in total assuming you are no more than 100kg that would be a total load of max 350kg. The GVW of a C3 Picasso is approx 1800Kg and the kerb weight is up to 1400Kg depending on model. Therefore you are pretty close to the max weight using these...

Probably used to have a suspended timber floor and they have concreted it at some point. The gap is probably where the concrete stopped if there was previously plaster/skirting there. The airbrick is likely redundant and could be removed and bricked up. A picture would probably help.

Try a screwfix locally and see what they have, however personally I'd whack a normal size tank immediatly above in the loft. It's as easy to do and will result in better pressure which can't be a bad thing.

Hmm, it all sounds very interesting and I wish I had the time to come up with a proper solution for this (I used to do a lot with old PC hardware and now do work with virtualisation and this mixes the two nicely!). You can get USB to ISA adapters which in theory would allow you to use that card...

Only other question would be how does the engraving machine connect to the pc? If it is serial or parallel port based then you should be able to pass these straight to the virtual machine using a USB serial or parallel adapter.

As an alternatove, have you considered virtualising a Windows 3.11 environment on a modern computer using something like virtualbox? You wouldn't need to worry about trying to keep ancient hardware running then: https://forums.virtualbox.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=51190

Insulated plasterboard tends to have a vapour barrier built in. I have used both insulated plasterboard and celotex between battens with the joints foil taped and then normal plasterboard in different rooms and have been happy with both approaches.

I've used them throughout my place to fix battens to brick walls and they are great.

Concrete screws straight into the hole, no plug required.

Surely an Edwardian kitchen would have extracted straight up a chimney so something could be incorporated that has the correct aesthetics...

Personally, I'd remove all the coving, skim then fit new coving. It's not that expensive and would give a better finish without doubt.

I'd use a multi-tool to just nip off the part of the sill that is in the way, clean, no mess and leaves the rest of it looking tidy. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0091GDVZK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B0091GDVZK&linkCode=as2&tag=technoturkeyc-21

I had something similar that just took the water from the roof of my bay.

You will need a hearth for the stove, last time I looked it had to project 300mm from the stove and be constructional (concrete under it). Check the regs though as I am no expert.

What is the other side of that wall, can you posty a photo of the ground. I had a similar problem and it was caused by the path sloping towards the house and water pooling against the wall when it rained. I relaid the path with a gradient away from the house and it was cured.

Personally I think it looks great as it is, I'd keep it and focus on everything around it.

Damp.

You need to remove the two lintels and fit one new one that is the correct specification for the job. You would have to use props to support the existing structure, very important to either do this right or get a builder to do it.

If the current layout is that unsuitable then I'd be more inclined to move house, you will spend a lot of money to reduce the value of the house significantly by doing what you propose.

I have one in my house that I never got around to varnishing, it's looking a bit grubby around the handle now and I'm going to sand it and varnish. Would have been easier for me to do this when the door was new and I wish I had.