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I have a 3 storey Victorian semi with 5 external walls. My logic with just doing the top two floors centred around putting a cap of insulation over the property to keep most of the heat in, the radiators on the top two floors rarely come on, the ones downstairs work a harder as there is more...

I added 50mm of Celotex to all external walls of the top two floors of my place, added 60mm insulated plasterboard to the sloping ceilings on the top floor, insulated the lofts properly and replaced single glazed for double glazed windows throughout and halved my gas consumption. I didn't add...

Thanks Muggles, that's a good point. I'm certainly not capable of that, is swapping the PCB for an identical one likely to cause such issues?

Along the same lines, can a non gas safe person swap a pcb on a boiler? My Greenstar Ri is playing up and it points to a PCB fault, it seems liek a very easy swap. I used to repair pc's and laptops for a living so am competent enough to perform the actual task of swapping a pcb but wouldn't...

I have a quartz digital with the rain head as well as the normal one and it's superb.

Totally pointless as they could climb over your neighbour's gate anyway and then hop over that low fence. Pop a 'beware of the dog' sign on it instead.

I'd strip everything back and see what you are left with, the plaster looks like it is where the old keep for a rim lock would have been and would probably be better replace with a suitably coloured wood filler. Remember that if you are looking for originality, the Victorians hated bare wood...

On the basis that the tiles, even when perfect, look hideous in my opinion, I think you'd see a return on investment if you redid the bathroom with some nice neutral tiles!

We would need a picture of inside your loft to look at the timbers. It's a shame that that roof has been changed to tiles, I hope they aren't roman style ones as they really spoil the look of the building in my view.

Some roofs require strengthening, some don't. How do you know that yours does? Can we have some pictures pls?

I'd probably lay a DPM then 50mm of concrete. This isn't good enough for a habitable room (insulation etc) but would give you a practical floor.

I was hospitalised for the best part of a week due to torsion, if you ever get a twinge that doesn't feel right then get straight to the docs/hospital gents. If I had left it another hour I'd be half the man I am!

What was the humidity outside? You can ventillate all you want but if its 90% outside then it's going to be 90% inside! Having said that, I'd still have one of these at each end probably: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-White-Gas-Vent-225x150mm/p/713018

I really wouldn't use aluminium under a stainless sink due to the risk of bimetallic corrosion.

On the basis that the render seems to be intact I'd be happy that there isn't any current movement and not worry about it at all personally.

I imagine it's more to do with a lack of ventillation rather than heat. Does the door fit tightly? I'd have a good 2cm gap at the bottom of the door to get some air in.

If you are going to that much trouble then I personally would insulate the inside of the external walls with 50mm Celotex or similar. I have done this on the top two floors of my place and it's amazing how little heat the rooms lose now, small cast iron radiators keep it warm and it holds the...

He probably saw the state of the light cable and assumed she liked having services ran externally.

Sky use them to anchor ladders to the wall all the time, nothing to worry about.

Looking at the photos you can assume the internal floor level of the house from the porch and the water stops rising 2 x bricks up the wall so its probably there and doing its job. As that path doesnt look like its really needed for anything other than a short cut for the post man, I'd be...