Search results

The hot water pipe is bent where it connects to the tap and is restricting the flow.

Superglue it into position, it would hold well enough to pass any inspection...

The white pipe looks more like 50mm to me. If that is the case then one of these should work: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/d20/Plastic+Solvent+Weld/sd2885/Solvent+Weld+Reducer/p99577

I'd add some 6mm strip wood, set back 5mm from the inside edge of the frame. Then when you fit your architrave set it back another 5mm off the edge of the strip wood and it add a nice looking extra step (in my opinion).

Gentle application of an angle grinder would be my choice for this situation.

As above, do this one properly or you'll have all sorts of problems in the future. Even adding 50mm would be really beneficial.

I've never seen a set up quite like this and can't offer any useful advice, however it is most interesting and thank you for sharing.

As per above, you would be crazy to replace that floor with laminate or modern tiles. If you don't want the floor then I'd come and dig it up for free if I had the time!

I've been cutting 600mm tiles in half on my cutter this week, the fence only goes to 200mm so I've been going carefully and slowly by hand and it's worked just fine.

I'd run a bead of clear silicon around the bottom and sides of the frame as a starter.

Mine is fully lined and I wouldn't dream of having one that wasn't for the reason above.

I have a friend who recently installed his own and did it through Building Control, all signed off and no problems whatsoever so the DIY route is fine if you do it properly (DIYP).

Woodworm aren't really an issue these days, central heating drove them out. Is your crawl space ventilated? A damp base isn't on its own an issue, but when combined with a lack of ventilation it can become one.

Looks like they are just there to separate the areas off the shed and probably ok to remove.

It is structural so no one sensible on a forum will tell you that it is ok to remove it. Whilst the building may not fall down if you remove it, it is there for a reason and your roof may move in the long term without it.

Thank you. That's kind of what I was thinking, I just wanted to make sure it was strong enough really. I was thinking of bedding it on some mortar as well as screwing it to the brickwork just to take out any unevenness of the surface, does this sound sensible?

I need to tile this step into my utility room, I was going to build it out with timber at the front to cover the pipework then lay a sheet of ply over the step extending to the timber and bridging the pipes: Is this the best way or should I be using backer board for this? Many thanks

Could you remove this saddle and swap it for an access saddle instead? They have a profiled plug inside to prevent blockages and it should theoretically be ok to bury this as per any other joint. Otherwise cut a section of pipe out and replace with new using a couple of rubber slip couplings?

I had exactly the same situation and had to enlarge the hole slightly to bury the joint in mortar.