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I thought it was overkill hence the question about using the 10mm if I decide to replace the shower. I don’t see me running the cable and them hooking it up any different to a registered sparky using an apprentice? As long as he can see what I’ve done and check the routing etc? I’m literally...

So could that be signed off under part p? I’m planning on running the cables myself and getting a sparky to check and sign it all off

Well from the 250 ovens listed on the Currys website only two of them are showing 32amp, most say 13amp so I assume I'll have 2 x 13 or at a worse case 2 x 16amp Say something like this one x 2 which is 3.2KW ... so 6.4KW / 230v = 27amps which we could downrate a bit in the board if required...

Those big beams are called purlins .... they support the rafters and stop the roof sagging. You should consult a professional to make the required calcs but in short you won't have the height to span 6.5m because the required joist depth for that wouldn't leave you with enough head height...

Hello, I need to rewire my kitchen and utility.... I need to run the usual services Kettle, dishwasher, tumble, washing machine and sockets etc but also the possibility of two electric ovens. The only real access I have to run any cables back to the main board is really getting a bit crowded...

I only know the rough science but when I add the weight of a washing machine its more that the 125kn load on the trada tables. If anyone can tell me more without getting my SE involved that would be great :)

The whole chimney is structural, not just on the outside but the inside too. Without seeing it it’s hard to comment but generally if you want to make an opening wider you’ll need 150 bearing either side wider and the correct sized lintel to take whatever load you have above. Two feet is about...

See above reply .... 125kn is under 2m the floor is 2.5

From underneath yes? I think that’s the best solution.... just whether to go block or timber?

Thanks .... I was under the impression that a 200l accumulator would only fill half way as 100l of it would be pressure? I need to check the tech info. I guess it’s not much different weight wise to a full bathtub? Need to apply some science instead of guessing I suppose. Trada says...

Yes that had crossed my mind but its a really old house....You might be right of course but the look a bit piddly to be holding 150plus KG and a shed load of vibration?

Thank you

Apologies for the rough picture it was taken a while ago when I cleaned out the crawl space void (it’s not a cellar), insulated it and replaced the rotten floorboards. Anyway it’s only been used as a dry utility and office for a while but now we are moving the kitchen around. Along that far...

Thanks I know ... just wanted to know about getting from the road to the house, found the insulated ducting now. It was you who mentioned the pipes going under the hallway I’ve got south staffs coming out next week to do a flow and pressure check at the road.

Is there any way to assess what flow rate I’ll get from a new main? I’ve got 10l min at the moment.... they state 9l min? I could be changing for nothing and still have to have an accumulator

Hallway has been backfilled and concreted I’m afraid .... it will mean running a pipe along or behind the skirting maybe chased into the wall. Got to get through a staircase / round the stringer too

Struggling with flow on our shared supply (used to be one house) that is also lead rising main. We live in a hard water area so effects aren’t so bad lead wise but I think the old pipe could be contributing to my problems of flow. Anyway, before I install an accumulator I’m going to look at a...

Yes of course ... silly me, I didn't look at it like that so thank you for explaining. Back to the original installation... Can I take issue with the bloke who I paid to put the second electric shower in if that's the case? Surely he should of advised me that running two electric showers on...

Ok ... 8500 watt shower 5000 watt cooker 13500 / 240 (although I thought everything was calculated on 230 these days?) = 56 amps so not much left over for everything else? I know we could be selective about which cooker to go for but more amps opens us up to more options? For the sake of...

I know unvented could actually make matters worse by reducing flow on the cold side (robbing peter to pay paul). Electrics wise I could still in theory have a situation where the cooker is on full whack at the same time as the one shower? 40amp shower and 32amp cooker? could easily be more...