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It looks like this topic has been visited before: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/decent-quality-isolation-valves.324628/ There is alot of discussion about the original ballofix company (before it was sold) & a company called 'Cottam & Preedy'. They have also created an iso valve called...

The video is from a company named Altecnic. After seeking videos from conex & pegler (options suggested on the thread) - I could not find any from them that explained the differences between Hq & Lq iso's. This video came up as a suggestion. In it, theory & engineering principles are directly...

This is where I'm at currently. I'm fearful of using a powerflush, as most of the pipework is behind plasterboard. What do you think about the following: A) Clean out the existing plate heat exchanger (SoS) & replace. B) Have PRV checked and replaced (if necessary). C) Drain out the CH...

The responses on this thread have opened up the topic & expanded on the differences between brands/makes/quality. What's clear - is that decent isolation valves cost more for a reason. I came across this webinar on youtube from Altecnic. I am directly asking the community for their thoughts...

One of the aspects you mention - PTFE stems seals & socket seals - seem to be one of the features that distinguish the better iso valves from the cheaper ones. Also - sealing the stem - the way it is done & maintained throughout the working life of the valve - would be something to consider.

Yup, that guidance kinda put me off the freeflows. It's likely they are just covering their backs regarding locations with extreme scale. I'm seeking to understand the engineering differences between HQ isolation valves & LQ ones?

Thank you for sharing the website. This thread was conceived as an "Exploratory Topic". The purpose being to explore, unpack and overthink the topic - so that new angles can be explored and new insights gained. It's the knowledge expansion I'm after - not just a quick part recommendation...

So it would seem that it's either: A) Pegler B) Connex Or C) Flowflex I'm curious about 'FlowFlex' What are other members opinions about flowflex isolators? Have many if you heard of them. What's the quality like compared to the peglers/connex?

Also - I have been told that leaving the fill loop open means excess oxygen would've also been introduced to the CH system. That any inhibitor would've been flushed out of the PRV. And that the result would've been excess corrosion?

Its not visible - plumbed into waste.

Do the peglers & the connex units come with metal t-handles or are they plastic. Always find the plastic ones go brittle and break when needed after a couple of years.

This is the crux of the problem. The cheapo screwfix ones - weep through the slotted valveheads. Its happened time & time again. When u need/turn them - they leak. I'm looking to replace all of the cheapo ones in the family home - and am seeking fellow members opinions on, A) selecting high...

Exploratory Topic Where can I source decent quality / high quality isolation valves, for use with taps/cisterns/waging-machines & the like in the family home? What brand? What make? I am specifically seeking ones with reliability & longevity in use. Ones that will work when there is an...

Okay - so let me summarise. For Mains (ONLY): Isolate all taps below any flexi's. Isolate toilets. Make sure shower (mixer) is off. Put meter on washing machine fitting. Open valve. Isolate incoming mains. Watch pressure for a few hours to see if there's any dramatic change? Please add...

Update/clarification: When the open fill loop was discovered - the "pressure meter dial" on the boiler was in the red. But crucially, NOT at its furtherest extreme. It was not "topped out". This will have been for the duration the boiler was left in this situation (roughly 1 month).

Exploratory Topic. Interesting scenario. Main combi 25 Eco. Air in rads - so bled. CH circuit topped up - BUT forgot to reisolate @ fill loop! Boiler had mains fill loop left open for about a month. Presure Dial on boiler showed close to 2/2.5 bar before problem was discovered. Boiler was...

I am curious - why the discussion of integrity testing doesn't come up more often. Many houses have piping that is decades old. Even for newer installs, I often get the impression that part of commissioning/finishing a piping job - involves professional pressure testing. What are UK...

As this is an exploratory thread. If it was to be professionally tested (vs DIY). How would it be done?

I think the best option will be to attach it to the washing machine joint - isolate the supply & leave it for a few hours and monitor. Which size would I need for the nut - to put it on the washing machine coupling to the copper pipe? I.e the correct size so I can remove the washing machine...

These suggestions make sense. Could anyone recommend the appropriate type of gauge to purchase? Plus a place to get it from. (All the pipework in question is 15mm).