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It there a voltage between brown and grey? If so then the grey is neutral (as it should be anyway) and black is switched live.

I take it you are talking about a cylinder thermostat, if so then terminal 2 will be the satisfied connection which is only required on a Y plan system and not needed on a S plan.

Yes looks good.

Terminal 3

The stat is wired wrong. The middle terminal is 1 which the brown wire should be connected to. Then the black wire should be connected to 2 (left) if you want the pump to stop at the temperature the stat is set at. Or 3 (right) if you want the pump to start.

Sorry I was mistaken.

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If you go into manage devices in the Hive app and select your thermostat there is a setting called "ready by." If you enable that, then the Hive will calculate how long it takes to reach the required temperature at the time you want. So if it is a mild morning it will come on later than if it...

It can't it's for the newer Greenstar 4000/8000 model boilers.

If you look in section 13 commissioning you will see there is a setting "E" for remote control parameter it will be set to 1 at the moment you need to set it to 0. It is showing an error because when set to 1 it will be trying to connect to the thermostat that you have disconnected. Then...

You probably have what is known as a gravity hot water, pumped heating system. When you turn the hot water on on the clock it just fires the boiler up and as the water in the pipes heat up. The hot water will rise causing it to circulate by gravity heating up your hot water cylinder. When you...

It's that long ago I can't remember.

We were told it was how you would make an existing one way switch circuit into a two way switch circuit. But also new circuits could be wired that way too.

It's more likely to be the pump because the actuators only have live and neutral to them, they don't have an earth, so are unlikely to trip the RCD.

I was taught the "conversion method" in college in 1983 and that is what we were told it was called. We were also taught the "conventional method" with feed at one switch and load at other switch with 2 strappers between them.

Red and blue are right but yellow goes to NO and you need to put a link between L and C.

Heatmiser neo-stat V2 but at about £55 each and £150 for the hub it won't be cheap.

It's probably knackered so someone has just joined the wires together to get the heating working. On your new controller:- Blue to N Brown to L Black to 1 Grey to 3

It is probably just the motor in the valve which needs changing (it's most likely jammed in the heating only position) these are about £20 from screwfix. You can see in your picture the adaptors that change the pipe size from 22mm to 28mm soldered to the ends of the pipes. It is more obvious on...

They are both wired exactly the same way. However, if you have a room thermostat then you will need to either leave it turned up full or disconnect it and join the live and switch wires. Depending on how it is wired this could be in the wiring centre where the pump and valves are or behind...