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Yes that looks good. Just leave the earth wire where it is that fine.

Put the black wire in 3 and a link from L to 1. And get rid of that grey wire that has been stripped back far too much.

I think that after 6 years the OP had probably sorted it out.

If it is powered permanently, like it is now with the link in place, then you have no time control. If you Google the instructions for your thermostat it says that it has an inbuilt rechargeable battery that should maintain the display for upto 8 hours when there is no call for heat from the clock.

You would fit that link if you only had a single channel clock to control the hot water times and programmable thermostat for the heating times and temperatures. You have a 2 channel clock for the water and heating times. That link just bypasses the heating times on the clock. The room stat...

In your second picture there is a white link between L and CH on this needs removing.

Well yes that is much clearer. In the old picture it looked like yellow was going to 2 and blue wasn't connected. So red A and blue to B and yellow to C. As D_Hailsham suggested.

As Ian has explained to you inside the valve is a switch connected to the orange and grey wires. When the valve opens the switch connects the orange and grey wires together which in turn fires your boiler up. The switch in one of the valves is faulty. So the valve is still opening but the switch...

No you don't need to. Check that the 3 pins on the back haven't been bent. You wouldn't blow anything by connecting it wrong. You just have a live wire and a switch wire.

Okay Well that is how it should be. Like I said make sure the front is on properly. On the back of the thermostat there are 3 pins that push into the holes on the back plate under the A, B and C connections of they are not pushed in properly they will not make contact.

Alright calm down! You said you connected the yellow to neutral make your mind up. The connections are as you say to A and B it doesn't matter which way round. Are you sure you have fitted the front on properly, it slots in at the top then hinge down then clips in.

Sorry I can't tell from the pictures, all that I am sure of is that there should be a wire in 3 and not 2 at the clock. You might have to get someone out who can do some testing to work it out.

What thermostat did you get? The honeywell one you linked to doesn't have a neutral? The yellow isn't a neutral it's a switched live. The blue might be neutral but it might not be connected at the other end because your existing thermostat didn't need a neutral.

I'm thinking that the blue you have circled should be in terminal 1 but don't do that until i have seen the picture i have asked for. But you also say cylinder stat not lighting up? What sort is it? Post a pic of that too please.

Could do with seeing a picture of the wires in the wiring centre where the pump and valves are connected, might be able to work it out then.

The wire that is in terminal 2 should be in 3 I would think. Because 2 is not usually used and 3 in the HW on.

OMG @ eric To answer your question 1. Yes

No

1 and 3 doesn't matter which way round.

Yes the hot water would work in its own. Just repeat to set back to normal operation. If you moved the receiver to where the valve is you wouldn't need any more wires just a case of reconfiguring the existing one.