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Thanks - when you can get ok-ish doors at less than £30 each....looks like replace might be best bet.... I have doors like this in current house (I painted for first time years ago -but pretty sure took a good few coats) and if children 'chip' them the dark brown shows through and they need...

1970s doors, the thin board on a frame type. Quite dark varnish. 11 doors. One or two with small bashes/holes from hooks Five are being rehung (change the way they open into a room) Thinking of getting a decorator in (rather than do it myself - not finding time to do anything at moment and...

possibly ...not going to think about it ...but thanks for making me laugh! :D Sorry for slow reply ... The frame seems to be nailed to the block walls - the joists don't go into the wall...although on the equivalent bit under the stairs going up there isn't a similar support in the...

I shall check today .... I know in this house the joists run into the wall ... but not sure about there - the wall on either side of the stairs are brick/block so are supporting - (rest of internal walls are plasterboard...) (Was really surprised the floor was boarded - it must have been...

Sorry - don't live there at moment and thought I had got better photos until I came to upload (lots of duplicates -don't know how I managed that) Hopefully these I have anyway might help... From bottom of stairs from top Also this is a picture of current house - which is similar...

1970s house. Stairs are in two parts, with a half landing. Have an understair cupboard ideally I would like to extend under the half landing. Removed some plasterboard to find studwork blocking access....- see photo (floor underneath is boarded - so that's a positive) Is the stud work likely...

Should have asked ...can I put something (vaseline/wd40 or???) on the new spline to reduce the risk of it seizing again? (Ikea apparently did two versions of my tap - so hopefully will now get the right cartridge at the beginning of next week...)

Just (yes just!) managed to get it off - soaked in vinegar, then WD40 and in the end had a small adjustable wrench covered in a cloth and used it a lever to force it up ...(so much force now worried about how the pipe joints underneath will be holding up...) Found it all covered in serious gunk...

Did put some vinegar on it -but didn't leave it very long - so will try again and leave it longer ... Looking at it I think I need to buy a deep socket too - but can't tell yet until i get this bl**dy lever off!

Kitchen lever handled mixer tap (IKea Loviken) - hot tap started dripping and got worse rapidly to steady stream ...so bad had to isolate it ... It is a ceramic disc tap and less than 4 years old....phoned Ikea and they have (free of charge) sent me out a new cartridge ...which arrived...

BTW told a neighbour (bit older than me!) about this - said he'd a similar problem with a downlighter- worked intermittently...when I wondered if it was the same problem - his first words were 'well it works ok sometimes so it can't be the bulb' -then realised what he'd said ... Us older...

Thank you so much... Problem solved (I hope) - had to wait till light stopped working -so a delay (no point checking if it was working!) It is the bulb ... get 240v to light terminals and 240v to threads even with no light! (feel really stupid now!) Bulb was screwed in properly - it was E14...

I have a basic multimeter - one with a dial (not digital) ... Assuming I check voltage from light bulb thread not terminals... Not sure how to test for continuity of neutral conductor between the lights? Can't really isolate anything now - children around (distraction and electricity don't...

Just one black and one red...