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Just scrat a bit off, mot is so easy to adjust.,compared to limestone It looks good btw just needs a little bit more work. Dont forget Your a novice so your finding things out as you go , ive seen far far worse from so called professionals.. And caravan dwellers. What paving are you going to...

2 bricks below damp 150mm is perfect, if you are a bit higher 125 mm say you can use a 150 mm gravel strip at the wall which is a good practice anyway as it helps with soil stability footing wise, especially in heavy clay areas. Like side path is already.

100mm slab will be adequate without the rubble. Or use rubble and compact, then bed slabs on a 5/1 mix with the sharp sand

Your level and that straight edge are just the job But you could, Treat yourself to a cheap little spirit laser level and use that to see the fall. You can use a tight string line after you have your level. Looking at thar base which looks fine btw id want about 75-100 mm fall 20- 25mm per...

As above If its a slab with 40mm thick slabs id expect at least a 150mm dig. 75mm base mot is perfect and a sand cement bed, or mortar. If its block paving you nedd 200mm dig for 50mm paving, 100-120mm hardcore if you want it to last.

You can leave a small gap for any water to drain, or a pointed joint bucket handle style. But even a flat level surface will only hold a very small amount and only for a short time. A shed can be set on damp proof plastic bearers, or as above with acurate shed size base. Like this one i did...

If it was level there wouldn't be a puddle.

As above. Lay one row with a tight level string line and then level off them. Its a shed base and it needs to be level.

A flat area. If I'd laid it i would have created a centre drain or crowned it. It clears in an hour and the access tarmac holds water so although its not perfect its ok as its not a huge lake. I'd jusy accept and forget it. To have it re-laid you will be looking at at least £25 m2+ as it...

As above, certainly add some sand or ballasts to bind it

Yes straight replacement. Get a medium duty cover.

Trading standards. You've employed a travaling minstral. See what trading standards have on this crook

Gate that size and weight neds 3 feet into the ground to make it stable and I'd have used a 9x9 oak post

The correct way requires a lot of work and cutting. As Ian has said it should be fine as its a small fall. As you plan to finish flush I'd be inclined to do the easy option in your case.

Mortar = building sand. You will make a mess with sharp sa d as it won't hold the water. Sharp sand will crack and look grainy too. Three to one with a plasticiser will give best results. Or go for a geofix type joint but they cost a bit but save time and mess

Talk to your contractor, if he's worth his salt you'll be very happy with his advice. You have a lot of concerns so difficult to advise without pics and more details. Most approved contractors are good, just make sure he is genuine.

Local garden machinery for all your needs, once a year or as needed if you can't diy

I should think that's a properly constructed paved area. 80 mm paving on a substantial base. Its normal to get depressed areas from worms ants water, and subsidence in the sub soil. Your just doing maintenance, dont worry, it's a cost for the company that all companies know they will have to...

The paving needs some minor remedial works to sort it.re-sand and compacting again. The sand has been washed out from under the paving as these are not the drainage type. Also ants can cause exactly the same problem. As cana heavy load, skip lorry foot when lifting a skip etc.. No liability...

Your siply putting a light shed on it. Most of the shed will be on the old base anyway. Shutter and lay the extra. Build shed, have a beer..